Restaurants

Reviews, discoveries and other news about restaurants and dining out.

ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

Twenty minutes early to a nearby appointment, and in the mood for a culinary somethin’-somethin’, I spotted ZPizza at the corner of Tatum and Thunderbird in Phoenix. Actually, I had passed by it many times before but today seemed like a day to experiment. I am quite selective with my pizza, preferring the back-East, New York pizzas with classic sauce tinged with a just-right balance of garlic, oregano, salt, and spice.

But since ZPizza does not tout itself as a New York-style anything, I put my expectations aside and asked what today’s slices were. Aside from the cheese and pepperoni standards offered, it was the Napoli that compelled me. A crispy, thin crust holds a rich, robust, almost creamy (though not cream-based) roasted garlic sauce, melted mozzarella and tomato slices which have been seared with texture from a generous sprinkling of parmesan. This flavorful grouping is accented by thick strips of fresh basil, baked into an irresistible fragrance. Yes, I was surprised. And yes, I was impressed. This was garlic with a purpose; basil with strength; and tomatoes –fresh, which I usually do not care for on a pizza – which held their own with their salty parmesan coating.

I did not realize that ZPizza uses 100% certified organic tomato sauce and 100% certified organic wheat dough, which is crafted daily and fire-baked on hot bricks. (The definition of “100% certified organic” these days could warrant its own article, but I did touch upon the benefits of organic bread just the other day). Kudos for helping us rationalize that devouring cheesy pizza is now healthy, if not fully for the body then at least for sustaining a hip local business.

ZPizza dishes up its pizza with a heart, through its ZCares program. At the time of this writing, ZPizza’s website touts that its 2009 goal is to “give away $4,000 worth of pizza per store in support of community fundraisers.” ZPizza proclaims it opened its first store in Laguna Beach, California in 1986, and has locations nationwide. This is one pizza restaurant that takes its community as seriously as its food.

But let’s get back to some of the great pizza flavors offered – after all, who does not enjoy vicarious exposure to new and delicious pizza combinations?

Artichoke hearts make a surprisingly frequent appearance on more than one pizza, including the Provence (organic tomato sauce, homemade roasted garlic sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, capers, tomatoes and fresh basil). The Casablanca also comes with that signature garlic sauce, mozzarella and artichoke hearts, but also includes rich ricotta, mushrooms, and parmesan.

The cleverly named ZBQ pizza has a BBQ sauce base with mozzarella, BBQ chicken, roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, cilantro and – for some starch with your starch – sweet corn. Most of the pizzas are priced around $10 for a small 10” pie, $17 for a medium 14”, and $21 for a large 18” extravaganza.

Another pizza category that ZPizza offers is the Rustica pizza ($8.95), which is a free-form, individual pizza, topped here in out-of-the-box combinations. Perhaps the most unusual is the Chicken Curry and Yam Rustica, which includes an exotic mix of mozzarella, curry chicken, yams, mango chutney, raisins and cilantro.

ZPizza also offers a variety of salads like Pear and Gorgonzola ($6.50/$8.50), two types of pasta ($7.50), and a wide range of sandwiches, including a Yuppie Veggie Sandwich ($5.95) and a Pollo Latino Sandwich, with marinated lime chicken breast, salsa and avocado ($6.25).

If you are gluten-sensitive, ask for the gluten-free crust (where available). And if you are reading my mind, you are now selecting the perfect Chianti to pair with the roasted garlic Napoli you will be picking up to go.

For locations and more information, visit ZPizza.com

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

On a recent trip to Israel, it was hard to miss the fact that Tel Aviv, along with most of Israel’s cities, thrives on the energy and hub of the café. Quite similar to Europe, in fact. Unlike the Starbucks institution we know (all too well) back in the States, Israel’s cafés seem to have a different kind of energy.

First, the cafés tend to focus on being outdoors, being part of a scene, of seeing and being scene – though with a surprising lack of pretension. While there were some laptoppers I observed in the Tel Aviv cafés, it seemed that most of the caférati were there to be in the moment – to socialize, or if alone, to take in their surroundings over an “upside down coffee” (kafe hafuch), a popular way to have your brew, with the coffee sprinkled over hot milk rather than having water poured onto the coffee first. Also, while there are several café chains in Israel now – Aroma, Café Hillel, CafeCafe, Arcaffe – there still seemed to be a very individual spirit to each café, and plenty of independent locations.

Another note on Israeli cafes is that they focus on food well beyond the carb-laden, glass case offerings. You can often order a typical Israeli breakfast which includes tomato and cucumber salads chopped into painstakingly tiny pieces, with lemon and olive oil, as well as eggs, cheeses, and breads or even sandwiches. “Real” food for breakfast, if you will; perfect for the savory protein lover, like yours truly.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe fare includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

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Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Stale smoke, sticky floors, and the guy camped out ordering four double Long Island Iced Teas in plastic cups may be a thing of the past – or at least, a thing that does not plague all bars. Bar Avion, in New York’s JFK airport (Terminal 4) is bringing the swizzle back in the stick with its mod-meets-European design in calming blue tones. And don’t forget the actual food displayed at the door – a Japanese influence, perhaps? Bar Avion is a great example of the stylish way to prepare for take-off.

Does anyone have another example of a not-too-shabby airport bar?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

If Barbie dolls drank wine, they might pick this stylish label to match their sun dresses (Summer Sipping Barbie, anyone?). But as for the contents inside the bottle, au contraire, mon frere. Festive, airy, and refreshing, Baillieu Vineyard’s 2007 Rosé is made from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes (of Champagne-region fame), gently pressed into a crisp, fragrant sensation. The color is beautiful, and so is the versatility. Pair this with pasta primavera, grilled vegetables, or as I did, a generous piece of veal, simply prepared in a schnitzel style with an herbed vegetable mélange. This is a dry wine with a faint sweetness on the nose reminiscent of strawberries smeared onto rainy mineral stones.

The setting in which I experienced this wine made this wine that much more of an experience – the charming Merricks General Store in the Mornington Peninsula, in Victoria, Australia. This historic outpost, once an actual general store back in the 1920s, now boasts an impressive city-grade menu, in multiple versions. Its Cellar Room menu boasts interesting charcuterie items such as Barossa chicken liver parfait, ocean trout rillettes, and herbed labna balls (a nod to the Middle Eastern cheese-style yogurt spread), as well as cozy vittles like hearty soups and crusty breads. Its Dining Room menu features thoughtful starters like crème frâiche and gorgonzola pannacotta with prosciutto and honey cardamon roasted figs, and entrées such as beetroot gnocchi with mushrooms, walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and fried sage; and saffron and leek risotto with swimmer crab meat and cured ocean trout. (Breakfast/brunch is also available).

Clearly, this former supply outpost has evolved with a playful sophistication that’s a surprising treat for its rustic roots. Merricks General Store (apparently no apostrophe) is also the showcase restaurant for three collections of wine: those of Elgee Park, Mornington Peninsula’s oldest winery; Quealy, featuring winemaker Kathleen Quealy in conjunction with Balnarring Vineyard, and including some interesting blends, like the white Pobblebonk Italian blend, and Rageous, an unusual red blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot; and of course, Baillieu Vineyards, featuring our esteemed rosé and others, all featuring those pretty labels by artist Julie Johnston. Wine, art, and the delicious pastime of hanging out at a charming foodie general store. No complaints.

Does anyone have an unusual gem of a rosé to share with us?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Proof of rose's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

Proof of rosé's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

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Centro offers a fun, colorful atmosphere that can be dressed up or down.

Centro offers a fun, colorful atmosphere that can be dressed up or down.

By now, friends and family know the drill: whenever I go back to Fairfield for a hometown visit, everyone knows there will be at least one (or two) lunch dates set up at Centro. “So, uh, you wanna go to Centro?” I ask, as if suggesting a brand-new idea. “Sure,” is the knowing response, as my friends stifle a smirk. Centro again. This has been going on for nearly ten years. Yet I simply love this place and cannot seem to tire of it.

Centro has such a joyful, cheery atmosphere yet is stylish enough to make me don a string of pearls to have lunch with old friends. They even feature crayons and white paper tablecloths for, uh, the kids. Centro frames the best crayon masterpieces all around the restaurant. (I secretly wish to have my own drawing up on their wall, though they haven’t changed their chosen works in a while, so I may be out of luck.)

While I usually go for lunch, Centro is a great spot for a romantic dinner date, too. My absolute favorite dish here is the Penne All Vodka with chicken ($10.95), which involves penne pasta cooked to a perfect al dente (they just know not to over-mush it), topped with a flavorful mix of crispy pancetta, savory onions and rich, rich tomato vodka cream sauce (you can choose shrimp instead of chicken, by the way). I love pairing this with a refreshing glass of Pinot Grigio – the laid-back white wine that acts like a pleasant backdrop, akin to a favorite pair of jeans—nice jeans—that smoothly pairs with a whole host of trendy blouses.

I swear my other restaurant reviews will not be quite so emotional or nostalgic. If you’re in Fairfield, Connecticut, you have got to try this place out. And tell them I said hi.

Here are the nuts and bolts:

Who/What/Where: Centro has two sites (Darien and Greenwich, CT), but I am only obsessed with their Fairfield location.

Centro Ristorante

1435 Post Road, Fairfield, CT 06410
Tel. (203) 255-1210

Food: Contemporary Northern Italian cuisine such as soups and antipasti, fresh pastas, as well as thin-crust pizzas, salads and sandwiches. Lunchtime features a design-your-own-omelette offering, while dinnertime adds Piatti del Giorno entrees.

Catering, Take-Out and Kids’ Menus available.

Wine: Believe it or not, since this is more of a sentimental restaurant review, I am not armed with their wine list at the moment (nor is it available on their site, though the menu is). However, they do pay attention to their wines and have a nice selection even by the glass. I enjoy their Pinot Grigio with their fresh pastas.

Ambience and style: Light, airy, colorful and happy, yet with a sophisticated chic that keeps the both the social set and business bunch lunching here. When night falls, the two adjacent rooms create an energy of possibilities for the evening ahead. Great date spot, with a relaxed enough vibe that it won’t make you look like you’re trying too hard. In the warmer weather, enjoy dining al fresco on the patio. Amid a colorful canopy of umbrellas and fruit-printed tablecloths, you can people watch and gaze at the gazebo on the Green.

Special perks: Munch on long, crispy grissini breadsticks and flavorful marinated olives while deciding on your order. Or draw a picture on the white paper tablecloths using the crayons on the tables.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Dine al fresco on Centro’s patio, overlooking the quaint Fairfield Center.

Dine al fresco on Centro’s patio, overlooking the quaint Fairfield Center.

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