Food

Dining experiences, reviews, cooking and entertaining postings relating to food.

I couldn't help but display my Chanukah cookies instead of photos of wine...they came out so nicely!

Combining family, food and festivities, Hanukkah is truly a holiday experienced through the senses. Add some wine to the mix with these tailored tips, and you’ll up the simcha factor faster than a spinning dreidel.

With wine, it is important to relax and ultimately drink what you enjoy. Hanukkah’s treats and wintry backdrop provide just the occasion to experiment with food pairings. The first four tips offer advice on tasting and pairing.

1. Discover the new kosher wines. Gone are the days of kosher wines being synonymous with thick, syrupy concoctions (though these can get quite tasty during a four-cup seder). Today’s kosher wines, from Israel to the U.S. and even Australia, have begun garnering serious awards, and are redefining our concept of Jewish wines for the chagim.

2. Hanukkat Bayit. In Hebrew, Hanukkah means “rededication,” and what better way to celebrate this cozy festival of lights than to host a Hanukkah wine tasting with good friends, featuring – symbolically – eight wines for the group to try.
 

3. The new pairing theory. Did you know that the old “red wine with red meat, white wines with white meat” adage was born post-World War II, as an attempt by European wine promoters to target the steak-happy U.S. market? Some exceptions apply to that rule, such as the classic pairing of Pinot Noir and salmon, so modern wine specialists recommend pairing foods and wines that share equal heft or intensity of flavor, so as not to overwhelm one of the components. For example, chicken with herbs may be delicate enough for a white Chenin Blanc, but with a dark mushroom sauce, the chicken may be better suited to a red Beaujolais or Burgundy.

4. Wine’s yin and yang. Another simple pairing strategy is to take shared elements found in a food and a wine, and pair them in a complementary manner. Think of a crispy, fried latke and a buttery, oaked Chardonnay, both sharing a heavy richness on the tongue. An equally intriguing palate pleaser results from contrasting two elements – such as that hot, oily latke with a sip of crisp, clean Sauvignon Blanc, a delicate wine whose citruslike acidity cuts through the oil and cleanses the palate.

While the true essence of Hanukkah hardly emphasizes presents, it helps to have a plan for purchasing wines for a special friend, colleague or hostess. These next four strategies will keep your gift in their hearts long after the eighth candle has waned.

5. Pick a relevant region. Today, all 50 states make wine. If you have a loved one who will be visiting from New York, for example, why not give them a bottle of fine, red Meritage from the North Fork of Long Island?
 

6. Mark a meaningful year. Perhaps your niece got engaged in 2003. Why not track down a case or a magnum (large-format bottle) of a rich Cabernet Sauvignon from that vintage year?

7. Hone in on a hobby. With an abundance of clever winery names and creative labels available, this is one time when judging a book by its cover is encouraged. There are wine labels with favorite animals, tongue-in-cheek humor or even a sultry bottle of Marilyn Merlot for the fans.

8. Bundle wines from Israel and the Diaspora. Give a multiple gift by selecting the recipient’s favorite type of wine and gathering an Israeli version along with one from the U.S., Australia or Europe. Call this the “Nes Gadol Haya Po v’Sham” gift: A great miracle happened here and there!

Spanning the globe and various budgets, here are three kosher wines that pair smartly with Hanukkah fare.

Sauvignon Blanc: Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc

The signature citrus and gooseberry flavor combination put Marlborough, New Zealand, on the world map for notable Sauvignon Blanc production, and this example is just that – and perfect as a crisp contrast to hot latkes.
(White wine from New Zealand. Kashrut index: Mevushal, OU. Approximately $16/bottle)

Chardonnay: Altoona Hills Chardonnay

The full-bodied fruit and creamy oak essence lend a vibrant touch to this classic white sipper. With an exceptionally rich structure, this Australian landmark wine can easily complement any oil-laden Hanukkah treats.
(White wine from Australia. Kashrut index: Mevushal, OU. Approximately $8/bottle)

Pinot Noir: Galil Pinot Noir

This Israeli gem demonstrates the fruit-forward New World style of Pinot Noir, featuring tangy, earthy notes that showcase signature sour cherries and berries. Food-friendly and versatile, it is equally at home with schnitzel, mushroom-based dishes or grilled salmon. (Red wine from Israel. Kashrut index: Non-mevushal, OK. Approximately $19/bottle)

Gilat Ben-Dor, MBA, CSW is a wine educator and sommelier. She is the director of Renaissance Wine Academy™ in Scottsdale, Arizona, which offers wine education, keynote speaking, and consulting for corporate and private clients. Visit RenaissanceWineAcademy.com for more details.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2008-2010.

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Almond-tinged Rainbow Cookies strike a chord of nostalgia

There is something about those pretty, almond-tinged Rainbow Cookies that strikes a chord of nostalgia.

We know quite well that certain smells have the power to transport our memories back to people, places, or items in a powerful way.  Knowing this, it can be fun to deliberately take a stroll down Memory Lane by seeking out and savoring particular scents that evoke your “greatest hits” moments.  For some reason, the childhood-related smells seem most potent and precious, if for no other reason than they hold the key to reliving moments that have forever passed us in all other ways except the artificial captures of photos and recordings.

Though I am generally quite the carnivore, I have a sweet spot for specific desserts. But more than the sweet-tooth factor here, there is more of a “psychological hot fudge” going on here. I will forever associate the warm, sweet, festive smell of a bakery – hints of creamy icing, vanilla, sprinkles, and fudge – with childhood moments of joy: when my mother used to take me to the French bakery next door to my ballet lessons, and the smell of freshly-baked chocolate croissants soon translated to buttery smears of cocoa across my face; or when I accompanied my father on errands, and the deli owners always let me pick a “free” cookie. I thought I was on top of the world (though I was nudged not to choose the most obnoxiously large ones).

Playful cupcakes make for creative adults. Go ahead, no one's looking!

Playful cupcakes make for creative adults. Go ahead, no one's looking!

Many of these memories originate from back East – like from New York City’s “Top ZZ’s” (that is, Zabar’s and Zaro’s, beacons of deliciousness for commuters at Grand Central Station)—so I was particularly excited to find that here in Phoenix, Chompie’s  has quite an extensive collection of nostalgia-worthy goodies behind their gleaming glass cases.

I know many of you (especially you New Yawwkers) are partial to those Black and White cookies. But for me, I am forever partial to those moist, almond-tinged rainbow cookies; large, flaky elephant ears with just a hint of caramelized sugar at the edges (these are also known as angel’s wings or palmiers); and above all, a GOOD Napoleon (a.k.a., millefeuille), with its hardened sugar shell, layers of flaky pastry, and –most importantly—a custard-like filling (not layers of buttercream, like some hapless supermarket versions I’ve seen).

And finally, under the “How old are you, Gilat?” category: I’ll admit that, at first glance, I still gravitate towards the most colorful, cutesy, “novelty” items in a bakery case (is this an evolutionary relic? “Ooh! Shiny, fun, colorful thing. It must taste good!” I’m not sure. Usually, that psychology is reserved for the victims of poisonous mushrooms). So why the fascination with cutesy goodies and bakery smells? There is certainly the nostalgia factor I mentioned earlier. But other than that, I just like them. They are happy items that make us all smile, and promote good will. After all, could you really sustain an argument with someone who is busy licking a froggie cupcake?

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2010. All rights reserved.

These froggie cupcakes may not help broker world peace, but they can sure take the hostility out of any situation.

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Velvety jewel: A tall glass of fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice at Cafe Neto in Tel Aviv's Dizengoff Center.

Velvety jewel: A tall glass of fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice at Cafe Neto in Tel Aviv's Dizengoff Center.

I am quite a pomegranate aficionado: an admirer of their whimsical shape, their seductive ruby seeds, and the rich symbolism they hold, from fertility to happiness. In the United States, POM and other brands compete on the market to offer concentrated pomegranate juice, but during a recent trip to Israel, nothing beat the fresh squeezed varieties being offered in stands and cafés. If you know what pomegranate seeds are like — fairly dry to the touch with a delicate glaze encasing each seed — you could appreciate how many pomegranates it would take to concoct a big, tall glass of straight, anti-oxidant-rich, tart and tasty juice. And the color? Worthy of artistic inspiration. In Israel, they were certainly fond of their juice bars, but the crowning glory was the wide availability of this crowned, ancient fruit.

Beyond drinking pomegranate juice straight (or in cocktails), sprinkling the tangy seeds on a salad, or making a reduction of its juice to sauce meat with, what are other ways to incorporate pomegranates into cooking? Feel free to add your comments. I am convinced this will not be the last of a posting on pomegranates.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2010.

Pomegranates do grow on trees. The grove pictures is near the village of Lachish in Israel.

Pomegranates do grow on trees. The grove seen here is a common sight near the village of Lachish in Israel.

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Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Musing about hapless crustaceans that are sacrificed daily for the sake of a good bite is probably not the most uplifting way to pass the time. However, I was thinking about a recent visit to one of those restaurants—the kind of place where you point to your desired lobster in a tank, he looks at you (I swear), and half an hour later, you pretend it is a completely different lobster that is served to you. This experience brings to mind a culinary conundrum. Do lobsters have feelings when they are dropped, live, into a pot of boiling water? Do they know what is happening to them?

This scene was played out a bit too comically in the recent, double-bio film, Julie & Julia. The character of food blogger Julie Powell cringed a little while trying to throw a few defenseless lobsters into a boiling pot, got her husband to help her, and that was it. Ha ha, next scene.

This lobster guilt delves much deeper into our culinary consciousness. I, for one, absolutely love lobster. So am I mean to send one to its death each time I order it in a live-tank restaurant? (Or, heck, shall I resist ordering it in general, since it was once alive somewhere?)

And I love foie gras, as well, but should I stop eating it because of some unsavory or downright cruel practices used in artificially fattening the birds’ livers? Should we shun veal because of the idea that baby calves should not be pent-up, awaiting our next piccata? What about poor, helpless snails that were just minding their own business before becoming a garlicky plate of escargot?

Of course, who’s to say that these dilemmas should be reserved for only the more exotic creatures, or for the more publicized animal-treatment scandals? Do we know that pigs, cows, and chickens do not feel pain, or cannot sense their impending doom at some point in the slaughter houses?

This is not about endangerment of species, like in the case of shark fin soup, or even whether our food is prepared safely, like the nouveau urging to avoid chicken from dirty, overcrowded poultry farms.

Incredibly, perhaps, but I continue to enjoy my meat, seafood, and poultry; and yes, I did watch the documentary Food, Inc. The solution here is not to simply buy “organic” or “grass fed”—that may solve our health concerns and fight Big Business in the process– but the question I am asking is, do animals feel pain and fear, particularly relating to their slaughter for the purpose of our next meal? And if so, is it or is it not the way of the world – similar to Mother Nature’s world of predator and prey?

If we were to apply a perfect argument, we could not draw the line about guilt over some meats but not all meats. If we did categorize these meats with our conscience in mind, would we break them down into staple meats and nice-to-have/shame-on-you meats? And which animals deserve to be assigned into either predicament?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

Twenty minutes early to a nearby appointment, and in the mood for a culinary somethin’-somethin’, I spotted ZPizza at the corner of Tatum and Thunderbird in Phoenix. Actually, I had passed by it many times before but today seemed like a day to experiment. I am quite selective with my pizza, preferring the back-East, New York pizzas with classic sauce tinged with a just-right balance of garlic, oregano, salt, and spice.

But since ZPizza does not tout itself as a New York-style anything, I put my expectations aside and asked what today’s slices were. Aside from the cheese and pepperoni standards offered, it was the Napoli that compelled me. A crispy, thin crust holds a rich, robust, almost creamy (though not cream-based) roasted garlic sauce, melted mozzarella and tomato slices which have been seared with texture from a generous sprinkling of parmesan. This flavorful grouping is accented by thick strips of fresh basil, baked into an irresistible fragrance. Yes, I was surprised. And yes, I was impressed. This was garlic with a purpose; basil with strength; and tomatoes –fresh, which I usually do not care for on a pizza – which held their own with their salty parmesan coating.

I did not realize that ZPizza uses 100% certified organic tomato sauce and 100% certified organic wheat dough, which is crafted daily and fire-baked on hot bricks. (The definition of “100% certified organic” these days could warrant its own article, but I did touch upon the benefits of organic bread just the other day). Kudos for helping us rationalize that devouring cheesy pizza is now healthy, if not fully for the body then at least for sustaining a hip local business.

ZPizza dishes up its pizza with a heart, through its ZCares program. At the time of this writing, ZPizza’s website touts that its 2009 goal is to “give away $4,000 worth of pizza per store in support of community fundraisers.” ZPizza proclaims it opened its first store in Laguna Beach, California in 1986, and has locations nationwide. This is one pizza restaurant that takes its community as seriously as its food.

But let’s get back to some of the great pizza flavors offered – after all, who does not enjoy vicarious exposure to new and delicious pizza combinations?

Artichoke hearts make a surprisingly frequent appearance on more than one pizza, including the Provence (organic tomato sauce, homemade roasted garlic sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, capers, tomatoes and fresh basil). The Casablanca also comes with that signature garlic sauce, mozzarella and artichoke hearts, but also includes rich ricotta, mushrooms, and parmesan.

The cleverly named ZBQ pizza has a BBQ sauce base with mozzarella, BBQ chicken, roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, cilantro and – for some starch with your starch – sweet corn. Most of the pizzas are priced around $10 for a small 10” pie, $17 for a medium 14”, and $21 for a large 18” extravaganza.

Another pizza category that ZPizza offers is the Rustica pizza ($8.95), which is a free-form, individual pizza, topped here in out-of-the-box combinations. Perhaps the most unusual is the Chicken Curry and Yam Rustica, which includes an exotic mix of mozzarella, curry chicken, yams, mango chutney, raisins and cilantro.

ZPizza also offers a variety of salads like Pear and Gorgonzola ($6.50/$8.50), two types of pasta ($7.50), and a wide range of sandwiches, including a Yuppie Veggie Sandwich ($5.95) and a Pollo Latino Sandwich, with marinated lime chicken breast, salsa and avocado ($6.25).

If you are gluten-sensitive, ask for the gluten-free crust (where available). And if you are reading my mind, you are now selecting the perfect Chianti to pair with the roasted garlic Napoli you will be picking up to go.

For locations and more information, visit ZPizza.com

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Boutique L’chamim ("Bread Boutique") in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Organic bread. How warm and fuzzy. Just those words, organic bread, invoke images of crusty, chewy loaves that could scratch your face but are so delicious, especially when hot from the oven. These dreamy loaves would also be infused with highly unusual ingredients, lovingly prepared by a gentle artisan who likely favors handmade sweaters and vintage note cards. “Hi there!” they would cheerfully greet me as I walk into their fragrant bakery, feeling the need to hide my BlackBerry and other worldly trappings.

“Care for some lavender oat spelt bread? And a bedtime story?” Perhaps my imagination has taken over (yet again), but I do enjoy the idea of a natural, accidental sort of delicacy – the cool gourmet that wasn’t even trying – through its sheer simplicity of preparation.

And rightfully so. Who wouldn’t want their bread free of chemicals, pesticides, or other extra processing elements that diminish its otherwise grainy goodness? But…here’s the million-dollar question: Could you tell whether you were eating organic versus “regular” bread if there was no fancy sign about it? We could put this to the test by having bakers participate in a blind tasting. Would they be stumped? If not, what would be the distinguishing feature that would whisper organic to their palates?

I am still on my Israel kick from a recent trip there. If you happen to visit or live in Tel Aviv and are seeking organic breads, Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) is your answer. It is a pleasant walk away from the milestone Even G’virol Street. The Boutique sells a variety of breads and sweet baked goods, as well as a collection of jams, spreads and tapenades. Organic or not, I am partial to breads with suspended “stuff” in them (walnuts, olives, sun-dried tomatoes…). Now think back. What is the most unique bread you’ve ever tasted?

And, if blindfolded, could you distinguish between organic and non-organic bread?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Photo credit: meatcards.com

Photo credit: meatcards.com

I was thoroughly tickled to find a product that, quite literally, combines my love of food and business…and is also a perfect complement to my appreciation of bizarre and corny humor. Enter MeatCards.

A group of fearless entrepreneurs have experimented – successfully, it seems – with laser printing onto beef jerky, to create edible, and highly original business cards made of meat. Going by their Twitter handles of @eagleapex and @tikaro, they share their prototyping process via photos on Flickr and offer information about purchasing their meaty wares by following them on Twitter (@MEATCARDS).

Rather than spring for a predictable “first come, first serve” basis for creating business card prototypes for new clients, they awarded the customized samples via a most unusual competition: The first fifteen people who submitted photos accurately recreating scenes of man vs. dinosaur, based on Frank Frazetta’s stylized, pre-historic/fantasy paintings, were winners of the coveted meat cards.

MeatCards.com has swiftly been garnering global exposure, with a spot on Chinese television and a viral Internet following. The following statement from their website may sum it all up, especially for us over-the-top, business-minded carnivores: “MEAT CARDS do not fit in a Rolodex, because their deliciousness CANNOT BE CONTAINED in a Rolodex.”

Take a bite out of business, have a good chuckle, and keep your eyes open at your next networking event. The local Big Cheese may be bringing some meat to the table.

Fruit roll-up flyers, anyone?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

On a recent trip to Israel, it was hard to miss the fact that Tel Aviv, along with most of Israel’s cities, thrives on the energy and hub of the café. Quite similar to Europe, in fact. Unlike the Starbucks institution we know (all too well) back in the States, Israel’s cafés seem to have a different kind of energy.

First, the cafés tend to focus on being outdoors, being part of a scene, of seeing and being scene – though with a surprising lack of pretension. While there were some laptoppers I observed in the Tel Aviv cafés, it seemed that most of the caférati were there to be in the moment – to socialize, or if alone, to take in their surroundings over an “upside down coffee” (kafe hafuch), a popular way to have your brew, with the coffee sprinkled over hot milk rather than having water poured onto the coffee first. Also, while there are several café chains in Israel now – Aroma, Café Hillel, CafeCafe, Arcaffe – there still seemed to be a very individual spirit to each café, and plenty of independent locations.

Another note on Israeli cafes is that they focus on food well beyond the carb-laden, glass case offerings. You can often order a typical Israeli breakfast which includes tomato and cucumber salads chopped into painstakingly tiny pieces, with lemon and olive oil, as well as eggs, cheeses, and breads or even sandwiches. “Real” food for breakfast, if you will; perfect for the savory protein lover, like yours truly.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe fare includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

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Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Stale smoke, sticky floors, and the guy camped out ordering four double Long Island Iced Teas in plastic cups may be a thing of the past – or at least, a thing that does not plague all bars. Bar Avion, in New York’s JFK airport (Terminal 4) is bringing the swizzle back in the stick with its mod-meets-European design in calming blue tones. And don’t forget the actual food displayed at the door – a Japanese influence, perhaps? Bar Avion is a great example of the stylish way to prepare for take-off.

Does anyone have another example of a not-too-shabby airport bar?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

One of my sweet childhood memories, literally, involves a snack made in Israel: crunchy, festive little magenta spheres, strawberry flavored and known as “sweet Bamba” (as opposed to their original, burnt-orange colored, peanut-flavored counterpart, just known as “Bamba”). Given that a dessert should never be sweeter than a wine that it’s paired with (lest it make the wine taste bland or bitter), I’m curious as to pairing a ripe, honeyed Sauternes or Barsac with good ol’ strawberry Bamba.

If anyone beats me to this, let me know the results…or at least, your predictions.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

What makes a place an “institution”? No, not those kinds of institutions with straight jackets, mind you, but those places like Katz’s Deli in New York or Barnacle Billy’s in Maine. What makes a place elicit repeat business and a certain comfy notoriety? The predictable answer may be the combination of good food, hearty portions (that’s comfy!), warm service and a historic bent to the place. Add to that some childhood memories, and you’ve got the formula for a landmark locale.

Take Abulafia, the Jaffa-based boulangerie in Israel. They have expanded locations and gotten somewhat more slick in their distribution of their beigaleh and other savory baked treats, yet on a recent visit to Israel, after 18 years away, a funny thing happened to me. I did not necessarily recognize the original building (was it there in ’91?) but rather, I remembered what I used to order as a child from there…and had to get another. Take it all in: the flavorful sautée of onions, mushrooms, and yes, egg, all on a base of their hearty white beigaleh. It was nice to be back.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

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Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Time magazine has done it again. In the same issue as Ted Kennedy’s retrospective and Michelle Obama’s hair (week of September 7, 2009), Time has included a newsworthy article by Lisa Abend on a topic that has raised a hot debate in both the dining scene and the legislature – the ethics (and legality) of the force-feeding of geese to fatten their livers for the creation of foie gras. Foie gras is goose liver that has been prepared into a silky, flavorful delicacy favored by many a European and American.

The practice of force-feeding grain through a feeding tube to hapless animals in order to engorge their liver for the human “yum” factor has garnered both media and governmental attention, to the point that force-fed foie gras has become an outlawed product in certain foodie cities, including New York City. This cultural phenomenon that has quickly translated into an industry-wide economic scenario is now being revisited, thanks to the alternative philosophies of Eduardo Sousa, a “goose whisperer” who also raises about 1,000 geese in a natural environment in Extremadura, Spain.

Sousa’s answer to the industrial-style, forced fattening of the geese is to emulate their natural environment, from how they are birthed to how they forage for their food, and thereby “fooling” them into thinking they are wild, and not domesticated. This is directly beneficial in solving the natural-but-miniscule-liver issue often resulting from the disbanding of force-feeding. Sousa explains in Abend’s article that if you convince the geese that they are, in fact, “wild” and not in captivity, they will be influenced fully by their natural instincts. And then, he explains, the weather turns cold and in their instinctual state, the geese begin gorging themselves in preparation for their (imagined) long, airborne journey ahead. Ah…so is self-gorging the solution to force-feeding, then? Either way, this may pave the way for a new look at foie gras production practices and their ramifications, from gavel to table.

The foie gras issue is a tough issue. And let me just say that I am a huge fan of the stuff. Where do we draw the line with “humane” food consumption? If we boycott foie gras because of the force-feeding, are we still any better than the next person as we continue to eat veal, or eggs from caged chickens, or pork from pigs that were treated meanly at the feed lot? Heck, do we need to just say no to leather altogether?

Where does it end? And what are your thoughts?

*Further reading: for a Q & A article about Mark Caro, author of The Foie Gras Wars (and a disturbing photo of a tube-fed duck), click here.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

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Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

If Barbie dolls drank wine, they might pick this stylish label to match their sun dresses (Summer Sipping Barbie, anyone?). But as for the contents inside the bottle, au contraire, mon frere. Festive, airy, and refreshing, Baillieu Vineyard’s 2007 Rosé is made from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes (of Champagne-region fame), gently pressed into a crisp, fragrant sensation. The color is beautiful, and so is the versatility. Pair this with pasta primavera, grilled vegetables, or as I did, a generous piece of veal, simply prepared in a schnitzel style with an herbed vegetable mélange. This is a dry wine with a faint sweetness on the nose reminiscent of strawberries smeared onto rainy mineral stones.

The setting in which I experienced this wine made this wine that much more of an experience – the charming Merricks General Store in the Mornington Peninsula, in Victoria, Australia. This historic outpost, once an actual general store back in the 1920s, now boasts an impressive city-grade menu, in multiple versions. Its Cellar Room menu boasts interesting charcuterie items such as Barossa chicken liver parfait, ocean trout rillettes, and herbed labna balls (a nod to the Middle Eastern cheese-style yogurt spread), as well as cozy vittles like hearty soups and crusty breads. Its Dining Room menu features thoughtful starters like crème frâiche and gorgonzola pannacotta with prosciutto and honey cardamon roasted figs, and entrées such as beetroot gnocchi with mushrooms, walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and fried sage; and saffron and leek risotto with swimmer crab meat and cured ocean trout. (Breakfast/brunch is also available).

Clearly, this former supply outpost has evolved with a playful sophistication that’s a surprising treat for its rustic roots. Merricks General Store (apparently no apostrophe) is also the showcase restaurant for three collections of wine: those of Elgee Park, Mornington Peninsula’s oldest winery; Quealy, featuring winemaker Kathleen Quealy in conjunction with Balnarring Vineyard, and including some interesting blends, like the white Pobblebonk Italian blend, and Rageous, an unusual red blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot; and of course, Baillieu Vineyards, featuring our esteemed rosé and others, all featuring those pretty labels by artist Julie Johnston. Wine, art, and the delicious pastime of hanging out at a charming foodie general store. No complaints.

Does anyone have an unusual gem of a rosé to share with us?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Proof of rose's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

Proof of rosé's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

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Centro offers a fun, colorful atmosphere that can be dressed up or down.

Centro offers a fun, colorful atmosphere that can be dressed up or down.

By now, friends and family know the drill: whenever I go back to Fairfield for a hometown visit, everyone knows there will be at least one (or two) lunch dates set up at Centro. “So, uh, you wanna go to Centro?” I ask, as if suggesting a brand-new idea. “Sure,” is the knowing response, as my friends stifle a smirk. Centro again. This has been going on for nearly ten years. Yet I simply love this place and cannot seem to tire of it.

Centro has such a joyful, cheery atmosphere yet is stylish enough to make me don a string of pearls to have lunch with old friends. They even feature crayons and white paper tablecloths for, uh, the kids. Centro frames the best crayon masterpieces all around the restaurant. (I secretly wish to have my own drawing up on their wall, though they haven’t changed their chosen works in a while, so I may be out of luck.)

While I usually go for lunch, Centro is a great spot for a romantic dinner date, too. My absolute favorite dish here is the Penne All Vodka with chicken ($10.95), which involves penne pasta cooked to a perfect al dente (they just know not to over-mush it), topped with a flavorful mix of crispy pancetta, savory onions and rich, rich tomato vodka cream sauce (you can choose shrimp instead of chicken, by the way). I love pairing this with a refreshing glass of Pinot Grigio – the laid-back white wine that acts like a pleasant backdrop, akin to a favorite pair of jeans—nice jeans—that smoothly pairs with a whole host of trendy blouses.

I swear my other restaurant reviews will not be quite so emotional or nostalgic. If you’re in Fairfield, Connecticut, you have got to try this place out. And tell them I said hi.

Here are the nuts and bolts:

Who/What/Where: Centro has two sites (Darien and Greenwich, CT), but I am only obsessed with their Fairfield location.

Centro Ristorante

1435 Post Road, Fairfield, CT 06410
Tel. (203) 255-1210

Food: Contemporary Northern Italian cuisine such as soups and antipasti, fresh pastas, as well as thin-crust pizzas, salads and sandwiches. Lunchtime features a design-your-own-omelette offering, while dinnertime adds Piatti del Giorno entrees.

Catering, Take-Out and Kids’ Menus available.

Wine: Believe it or not, since this is more of a sentimental restaurant review, I am not armed with their wine list at the moment (nor is it available on their site, though the menu is). However, they do pay attention to their wines and have a nice selection even by the glass. I enjoy their Pinot Grigio with their fresh pastas.

Ambience and style: Light, airy, colorful and happy, yet with a sophisticated chic that keeps the both the social set and business bunch lunching here. When night falls, the two adjacent rooms create an energy of possibilities for the evening ahead. Great date spot, with a relaxed enough vibe that it won’t make you look like you’re trying too hard. In the warmer weather, enjoy dining al fresco on the patio. Amid a colorful canopy of umbrellas and fruit-printed tablecloths, you can people watch and gaze at the gazebo on the Green.

Special perks: Munch on long, crispy grissini breadsticks and flavorful marinated olives while deciding on your order. Or draw a picture on the white paper tablecloths using the crayons on the tables.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Dine al fresco on Centro’s patio, overlooking the quaint Fairfield Center.

Dine al fresco on Centro’s patio, overlooking the quaint Fairfield Center.

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Pair hot dogs and mustard with a mildly sweet wine like Riesling or Gewürtztraminer for a sweet-and-spicy contrast.

Pair hot dogs and mustard with a mildly sweet version of Riesling or Gewürtztraminer for a sweet-and-spicy contrast.

The first thing I’d like to get off of my chest is that, no, not all Rieslings are cloyingly sweet, and no, “Gewürtztraminer” is not what we say when someone sneezes. Close, but not quite.

Having said that, there is a phenomenon in which sweet wines tend to calm down spicy foods (this works great with Asian cuisine hot with chili flakes, paired with a well-chilled Riesling). In fact, it is fun to test out this tried-and-true principle in our own backyards, pairing spicy brats, Italian sausages, or hot dogs (the milder cousin, but flavorfully salty) along with some off-dry (and yes, some moderately sweet versions of) Riesling and Gewürtztraminer.

I recently paired these not in a grassy suburban backyard, but in a television studio during my appearance on the morning TV segment of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV). One way to build an even stronger contrast of the hot versus sweet is to up the ante on both ends: if you start with regular hot dogs, add some heat to them with different types of spicy mustards. If you are like me, you relate to the foodie’s dream pantry of having 23 different types of mustards (“No two are the same!” we’d argue, as we pondered over a jar of whole-seed or garlic-herb Dijon). The spicier the mustard, the sweeter you can go (to a point—but try and try again. This is not such terrible work).

The Riesling can come from Old World sources (i.e., European), especially Germany, in which the sweetness levels are officially classified, and acidity is known to balance sweetness and help avert a syrupy fate; or New World sources, like Australia and California, in which you will find drier versions much more commonly.  Older Rieslings are known to have a slight yet distinct petrol aroma (not kidding) but this will likely not come into play if you purchase New World brands geared towards the more ready-to-drink market.

Gewürtztraminer, which is (not surprisingly) thought to hail from the town of Traminer (in Northern Italy, near Alto Adige), is often associated with Riesling if only for their common propensity for sweetness and heady aromas. However, Gewürtztraminer does not typically reach the acidity levels of Riesling and is well-known for its signature notes of lychee fruit.

The Asian cuisine and Riesling phenomenon is a fun one to try, but today, let’s break out the buns, dogs, and mustard, and have an Oktoberfest in our mouths with our guests of honor: Riesling and Gewürtztraminer.

This post is part of a series on summer wine pairings. To see the starting post, click here.

Good examples: Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2008 (Washington, approx. $9); Fetzer Gewürtztraminer Valley Oaks 2007 (California, $7); Mirassou Monterey Riesling 2007 (California, $9).

Even sweeter picks: The spicier the food, the sweeter the wine to complement it. For traditionally sweet Rieslings, try one of these age-worthy gems from the German “doctors”: Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” Riesling 2008 (Germany, $10); Dr. Pauly Noble House Riesling 2005 (Germany, $11); Dr. Thanisch Bernkasteler Lay Auslese 2005 (Germany, $37).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Get out of auto-pilot mode and reach for a non-Cabernet with your burger.

Get out of auto-pilot mode and reach for a non-Cabernet with your burger.

There is something primal and so satisfying about the classic, hearty combination of “reds with reds.” And for summer, this hot match can still sizzle: imagine a meaty, iron-rich burger in one hand, with juices dripping down your wrist, and in the other hand, perfectly poised, a glass of robust red wine to match. Just when you thought things could not get better—oh yes, they can.

When beef comes to mind, the first red wine that is often on our lips (oh no, more puns!) is a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon. Nothing wrong with that. However, with summer here, I suspect that even those who love wool suits in the winter don a different outfit when the mercury rises into sweaty territory. Well, our palates are no less seasonal. How about lightening things up in the red wine department, and getting out of auto-pilot selections, for a change?

Those juicy burgers on the grill would sure love to have a summer fling with some Southern Rhône wines, such as those from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, made from up to 13 different types of grapes (though usually a primary blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and sometimes Syrah). Northern Rhone rules the roost when it comes to Syrah, such as wines from the well-regarded Cotes-Rotie (“Roasted Coast”) and Hermitage; these are Syrah wines made in the elegant “Old World” style. However, bold, drippy burgers are often most at home with equally spunky wines, and in this case, I would recommend a high-energy Shiraz from Australia. (That is NOT to say that all Australian Shirazes are the same, either, though that is for another day’s discussion…). Of course, Cotes-du-Rhône spans a bit of the region and you can find some great values from there (see examples below).

Speaking of toppings for burgers, what’s a great cheeseburger wine? A great red sipper – big enough to stand up to a bulky cheeseburger, but smooth enough to sip solo while waiting for the food to be ready – is a jammy Malbec; serious plum and blackberry but without as much tannic gravel going on as the biggest of reds. Envision the curvy silhouette of a lima-bean shaped pool instead of a hard-edged Olympic-sized square – the former is more rounded, but a real pool nonetheless.

Merlot, particularly when blended (with Malbec, even), can offer background structure but enough softness to highlight interesting toppings on the burgers without competing for primary flavor status; finally, it is always fun to open up a bottle of Beaujolais, such as Beaujolais-Villages (not to be confused with the annual Beaujolais Nouveau, which comes out in November, and would be quite the anachronism here). While designed not to be a big, over-the-top wine, Beaujolais wines are made of the Gamay grape and are often crafted in a manner that guides and slides the wine into our glass and into our throats without too much fuss. And that, my friends, is what summer is all about, is it not?

This post is part of a series of “Picnic Pairings” for summer food and wine.  Check out the first series post here.

Good examples: Jaboulet Cotes-du-Rhône Parallelle 45 2007 (Rhône, France, $12); Layer Cake Shiraz 2008 (Barossa Valley, Australia, $17); Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2007 (Beaujolais (multi-village), France, $14).

Extreme value pick: Panilonco Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua, Chile, $4).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Branch out into colorful rosé territory with a match of salmon and grilled veggies.

Branch out into colorful rosé territory with a match of salmon and grilled veggies.

The belief that fish can only pair with white wines is not always the case. The main factor to consider is how tannic (or how heavy and mouth-drying) your red wine is, as well as the weight and texture of the fish. There are many fish in the sea, and thus, all fish were not created equal. Lucky for us, salmon is a hearty fish, both in flavor and texture, and can withstand some heftier wines within the “light” category. A classic pairing of salmon is, in fact, Pinot Noir – the finicky, lighter-bodied red wine made famous in the movie Sideways. Somewhere in between sippy-sip white wine land and big-bad-Barolo land lies rosé wine. Yes, it’s the pink wine – though to be fair, rosés can range in hue from the faintest blush to a deep, peach-like salmon color (pun intended).

Rosés can be made from various grape varietals and the winemaking style contributes much to the final sweetness level of the wine. Unlike the well-known “sweet pink wine” that is white zinfandel (nothing wrong with it, but it spawned a widespread misconception that all pink wines are sweet), only a fraction of  rosé wines are actually downright sweet. Go ahead and give the drier varieties, especially from Bandol, Provence and Rhône, a try with your next meal of grilled salmon. The fruitiness in the rosé will not be cloying, but will provide a lift to each substantial morsel of salmon. This will work nicely with herbs grilled with the salmon, as well.

Rosés are versatile enough to also accompany that beautiful platter of grilled or roasted vegetables you’ve laid out on a pretty platter. Pairing rosé with colorful foods results in quite a feast for the eyes as well as the palate, and is yet another fun way to branch out over the summer.

This post is part of a series about summer food and wine. See the first post in this series.

Good examples: Try French Rosés from Bandol, Tavel, Gigondas or Cotes de Provence (i.e., Chateau du Rouet, Cotes de Provence; $15), or Francis Coppola, Sofia Rosé 2008 (California, $18). Value pick: La Ferme Julien Cotes du Ventoux Rosé 2007 (France, $5).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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This corn is not anemic – it is white corn, so fresh and sweet, you may forego dessert!

This corn is not anemic – it is white corn, so fresh and sweet, you may forego dessert!

Happy 4th of July! For your next backyard picnic, let’s put together a classic complementary pairing: Chardonnay and, yes, corn on the cob (don’t forget the butter). It’s not that the corn and the Chardonnay themselves are a classic pair, specifically, but the idea that a moderately or highly oaked Chardonnay is paired with a buttery dish makes for a harmonious match in the mouth. The sweetness and butter of the corn targets the toasty, buttery, sometimes vanilla-like that oak aging often lends to Chardonnay – the wine “chameleon” – so that similar elements in the food and wine are keenly matched, like a frilly bedroom set. Try this with buttered popcorn, too, and you’ll see this principle once more.

This post is part of a “Picnic Pairings” series, which starts here.

Good examples: Matchbook Chardonnay 2007 (California, $18); A to Z Chardonnay (Oregon, $17); Value pick: Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2007 (Australia, $9).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Yin and Yang in the mouth: the Colonel would be proud.

Yin and Yang in the mouth: the Colonel would be proud.

This is the first installment of five food and wine “picnic pairings” in a series, spawned by my latest appearance on Arizona’s “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV) earlier this week. I set up a spread of classic picnic fare and paired wines with them that will make both food and drink POP.

Today, let’s take a look at the first pairing: Sauvignon Blanc and mmm-mmm-good friiiiiied chicken! Fitness trainers be darned, I just love this sinful version of crispy, fatty goodness, a burst of seasonings enveloping juicy poultry (if done right). The light-bodied, crisp Sauvignon Blanc has long garnered its own series of classic pairings – mild seafood dishes, lemony vinaigrettes and, a real classic, goat cheese. Those would all be considered to be complementary pairings, as they emphasize a “like-with-like” combination of playful tartness. But here, in the realm of the down-home and juicy, I like to employ a contrasting approach: by sipping the Sauvignon Blanc alongside the heavier, oily fried chicken (or any fried food, for that matter), the wine’s piercing acidity will cut through the grease and impart a zingy, refreshing taste – like a yin-yang experience in your mouth. Try this with some creamy picnic favorites, like potato salad and macaroni salad, for more of that zesty contrast.

Good examples: St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Napa Valley, approx. $22), Sauvignon Blanc from the Sancerre region (Loire Valley, France, prices vary); Value Pick: Falling Star Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2008 (Mendoza, Argentina, $6).

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The full “Picnic Pairings” set-up from my 6/29/09 live taping of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV7).

The full “Picnic Pairings” set-up from my 6/29/09 live taping of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV7).

To commemorate the 4th of July, I was recently called in to re-appear on the Arizona-based morning show, “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV). For this segment, I prepared a bountiful spread of classic cook-out fare, along with a line-up of my recommended wine pairings. As I set up a plate of fried chicken here, a slab of grilled salmon there, and some extra-creamy potato salad, it occurred to me that on the actual 4th of July, back in 1776, the last thing on peoples’ minds would have been grilling techniques or chilling some Pinot Grigio before company arrives. Still, things have somehow morphed into this great grilling tradition now, celebrating good times, great friends, and fantastic wine pairings that go nicely with the full line-up of barbecue bites. I have laid out five great food and wine matches, in the form of a series, which can be enjoyed well into the summer. Follow along in the days ahead!

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