Articles by Gilat Ben-Dor

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Classic Raffaellesco pattern on Deruta majolica plate

This lively, stylized dragon is a signature mark on the classic Raffaellesco pattern used on many Deruta majolica pieces. Pictured here is a plate from my personal collection.

Who am I to judge those who obsess over the dining chairs of an obscure designer, or those deranged fans of discontinued lipstick shades, hunting down the last remaining world supply with cold-sweat fervor? Not I. I will readily own up to my own unique brand of fascination: Italian majolica (pronounced “maYOLica”, and sometimes spelled maiolica). Majolica is pottery painted in a protected Renaissance tradition in the town of Deruta, in the region of Umbria. For those cooking-lesson villa renters out there, and fans of “Under the Tuscan Sun,” you may know Umbria as the region just southeast of Tuscany.

But Deruta pottery is so much more than some hand-painted flourishes scrawled on a fruit bowl. Deruta pottery comes in a variety of historic designs, which I will point out shortly. But aside from the rich tradition surrounding Deruta wares, I make the audacious claim that a Deruta dinner plate changed my life.

A dinner plate?

Yes – and from an early age, too. As a child, I used to play at the home of our family friends where I discovered an untapped passion. This couple has led tours to Italy for many years, particularly based around the Renaissance capital of Florence. In their home, I grew up gazing at the large, glamorous photos of them standing proudly in front of medieval architecture, and with wind-blown smiles atop city panoramas. Dressed in stylish gear, gelato in hand, they posed on gondolas and beside clock towers. I loved being in their home, surrounded by volumes of glossy art books, and the cozy luxury of rugs and artwork in every cranny.

But perhaps most of all, it was their elegant, stylish dinner parties (viewed from my vantage point at the “kids’ table”) that intrigued me the most. This is where I witnessed their never-ending parade of Deruta pottery: ceramic candlesticks whose colorful designs glowed amid the din of group laughter; platters sturdy enough to hold plump piles of veal piccata and hearty helpings of pesto linguine, and yet charming and poised enough to grace a table fit for Company.

Damn the kids’ table, I thought, as I gazed at my hot dogs n’ beans.

It was during one of these entertaining affairs that I first saw it: Raffaellesco, the pattern of my dreams.

Lively, stylized dragons with tapering tails in rich shades of golden maize, accented with cobalt, brown and teal. More ornamentation than a Bach fugue, but it all worked cleanly against the crisp, white background. This is truly the spirit of the Renaissance, captured perfectly! I remember thinking, as I reached the flashpoint of my lifelong love of the Italian Renaissance.

The Raffaellesco pattern offers an experience both visually and energetically. It is regal and stately, yet fun and dynamic – a satisfying combination for those with modern formal tastes.

Hand-painted detail showing the Raffaellesco dragon

In this detail from an authentic Deruta plate, you can see the brushstrokes indicating true, hand-painted workmanship.

The name Raffaellesco is attributed to the Renaissance artist Raphael, who was thought to have painted a benevolent sea god meant to protect seafaring merchants on their journeys. The design stuck, as it is one of Deruta’s most famed and popular designs. Other classic Deruta designs include the colorful Ricco Deruta, considered the oldest and most traditional pattern in the Deruta tradition; Orvieto, a nod to rustic living with its cheerful, green roosters;  Siena, an elegant, black-bordered collection featuring medieval-style flora and fauna; and the lively Arrabesco pattern, featuring birds and freeform decorations that evoke a more contemporary sensibility.

The town of Deruta takes its pottery traditions very seriously. The city houses what is widely considered the world’s foremost authority for the teaching of the Deruta majolica technique, the International School of Ceramic Art “Romero Ranieri.” All authentically created, local majolica pieces contain a special “Deruta” signature on their underside, usually hand-painted rather than stamped. The producers must follow strict design guidelines if they are to label their majolica pieces in the classic series.  This handiwork does not come cheap, and even within the regulated producers, there is a spectrum of quality and refinement. For the real deal, expect to pay at least $100 for a dinner plate (yes, one dinner plate).

Recently, after a two year investigation, the Italian police uncovered a Deruta fraud ring. According to a March 10, 2010 article published at ThatsArte.com’s blog by Tiziana, “last February…Italian police charged the owners of three companies located in Assisi and Deruta with fraud and other administrative crimes. They manufactured fake Raffaellesco and Ricco Deruta pottery that was then partly sold to bus loads of unaware tourists visiting Assisi, partly exported to Europe, Japan and to the US at competitive prices.” The police seized over 2000 pieces that bore the coveted “Handpainted in Deruta” signature but which were actually decal transfer work.

The dramatic world of art fraud is far-reaching, I’m afraid. I have encountered several knock-offs in some of my own local home furnishing stores. It is easy to spot these knock-offs if you look closely. You will be able to see a tiny “dot matrix” printing texture instead of a smooth series of brushstrokes. To this, they will often hand-paint the rim of the plate which may add more of an authentic look to the unsuspecting eye. Sure, these are priced quite inexpensively, but like first-class air travel, once you’ve experienced the real deal, it’s hard to go back.

Deruta authentic signature

This hand-signed mark on the underside of a Deruta majolica piece indicates authenticity.

Not surprisingly, I ended up spending a blissful semester in Florence during my college days. I was thrilled when I found an affordable Deruta (or was I duped into buying “Deruta style”?) vendor stand in one of the piazzas. I bought a small Raffaellesco plate, but it then broke in transit back to the States. Since then, I have thirsted for more Deruta to ease that early disappointment. But a funny thing happens with these types of pursuits. Suddenly, one piece is no longer enough. The most insidious part of a “Deruta-ddiction” is that these beautiful pieces are also functional. The rationalizations can get out of hand. I mean, who couldn’t use a mezzaluna (crescent-shaped) cookie dish around the house, or a hand-painted biscotti jar to catch someone’s hands in?

Come on, you know you want a rooster-shaped pitcher.

To purchase Italian majolica in the U.S., visit the website of Biordi in San Francisco, California. There are many other purveyors of Italian majolica in the U.S., but Biordi carries some of the finest examples of majolica from Deruta and other regions. Their inventory spans from classic to more contemporary styles, and many items beyond tableware. You can even commission your own designs through them.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2010. All rights reserved.

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Velvety jewel: A tall glass of fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice at Cafe Neto in Tel Aviv's Dizengoff Center.

Velvety jewel: A tall glass of fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice at Cafe Neto in Tel Aviv's Dizengoff Center.

I am quite a pomegranate aficionado: an admirer of their whimsical shape, their seductive ruby seeds, and the rich symbolism they hold, from fertility to happiness. In the United States, POM and other brands compete on the market to offer concentrated pomegranate juice, but during a recent trip to Israel, nothing beat the fresh squeezed varieties being offered in stands and cafés. If you know what pomegranate seeds are like — fairly dry to the touch with a delicate glaze encasing each seed — you could appreciate how many pomegranates it would take to concoct a big, tall glass of straight, anti-oxidant-rich, tart and tasty juice. And the color? Worthy of artistic inspiration. In Israel, they were certainly fond of their juice bars, but the crowning glory was the wide availability of this crowned, ancient fruit.

Beyond drinking pomegranate juice straight (or in cocktails), sprinkling the tangy seeds on a salad, or making a reduction of its juice to sauce meat with, what are other ways to incorporate pomegranates into cooking? Feel free to add your comments. I am convinced this will not be the last of a posting on pomegranates.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2010.

Pomegranates do grow on trees. The grove pictures is near the village of Lachish in Israel.

Pomegranates do grow on trees. The grove seen here is a common sight near the village of Lachish in Israel.

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McLin and Marshall play at Arizona State University

Katherine McLin (right, on a 1734 violin) and Kimberly Marshall (on pipe organ) mesmerize the audience at Arizona State University

There is something about a pipe organ. Something beautiful, something haunting (ok, I’ll say it – something even a bit creepy and foreboding). But something powerful, nevertheless. And the dreamlike sequence featuring Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D Minor, in Disney’s Fantasia, certainly put organs back on the map when that film came out.

And violins…don’t get me started! Done right, the sound of a violin can (and has) literally moved me to tears. Or gotten me so pumped up for life that I wanted to jump up and go conquer something. The movie alone, The Red Violin, has spoken volumes of the timeless power of this poignant and emotionally-charged instrument. Even non-musicians have heard of the great Stradivarius and his priceless violins.

I was therefore delighted to discover a concert created just for the sake of pairing these two musical titans of sound. Arizona State University’s Herberger College of the Arts sponsors an impressive array of concerts – choral, jazz, orchestral, band, percussion, guitar…you name it, they have an in-house ensemble or a guest performance of it. In this case, I attended an afternoon concert yesterday at Organ Hall called Beauty and Bravura, featuring the violin – a 1734 Sanctus Seraphin violin, in fact – and the organ, a beautiful rendition built in the 1990s in the classic Baroque style.

Since musical instruments do not play themselves (barring those saloon pianos), the credit goes to the two stunning virtuosos who performed: Katherine McLin on the violin and Kimberly Marshall on the organ. Each woman has had an illustrious international musical career, impressive academic affiliations, and a cadre of classical recordings.

As I left the concert hall, I had the following thought: What if Bach had gotten caught up in his daily grind? What if he started dabbling with a few variations on a theme – maybe 5 or 6 max, instead of the 64 variations in his signature Passacaglia – but then life got in the way? There they’d be:  unfinished manuscripts on his desk, gathering dust and coffee stains…What would his legacy have been? What would we have from him today? If we are serious about our own legacies, and realizing our gifts and potentials in this lifetime, let’s take our dreams seriously – turn them into goals (dreams with timeframes) and let’s get to the business of giving of ourselves to the world in the form of a legacy.

Pipe organ at ASU performance

Detail of the pipe organ featured in the "Beauty and Bravura" concert at Arizona State University. The organ was built in 1991, but retains a classic Baroque flavor.

For the serious aficionados, here is a look at yesterday’s Beauty and Bravura program, along with commentary from yours truly:

Adagio and Fugue for the Violin and Organ, Op. 150, no. 6

Joseph Rheinberger (1839-1901)

This lively opening piece featured both McLin and Marshall, playing violin and organ side by side. Although a much later successor of Bach, composer Rheinberger included several distinctive riffs reminiscent of Bach’s signature swirly flourishes.

Partita No. 2 in D minor for Violin, BWV 1004

Ciaccona

Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750)

This was by far McLin’s showcase piece, both for her crisp expertise as a violinist, and for the piece itself. Prior to playing it, she explained to the audience that the Ciaccona was thought to have been Bach’s dedication to his wife when he learned of her death. The Ciaccona is nearly 15 minutes long – longer than the preceding four parts combined – and with McLin’s expert mastery of its haunting, lyrical components, the audience was transfixed. There was is eerie beauty to this piece that is almost surreal.

Sonata Representiva for Violin and Continuo

Heinrich Ignaz Biber (1644-1704)

Allegro

The Nightingale

The Cuckoo

The Frog

Adagio

Allegro: The Hen/The Rooster

Presto

Adagio: The Quail

The Cat

Mussquetir Mars

Allamande

Here, we heard a light-hearted contrast to the gravitas of the Ciaccona preceding it. Biber, who precedes Bach, created a rather amusing sonata centered on vignettes with particular animal themes. During The Hen/The Rooster segment, there was even a somewhat country-western flair at times, which was ironic since Biber was born in 1644. Perhaps it is now that the cowboy spirit lives on.

The other interesting feature of this piece was that Marshall did not play the organ, but instead, played an early musical instrument called the continuo. Prior to playing, she opened two ornate panels to let the sound travel better, and I was able to see, from my second-row seat, that the inside of the two panels was elaborately painted with flowers and ribbons. No plain packaging back then!

Side panel of continuo

Here, the side panel of the continuo is visible, with hand-painted floral and trompe l'oeil detailing.

Passacaglia in C Minor for Organ, BWV 582

J.S. Bach

Ahhh…back to Bach. Call me a purist, or simply a Baroque fanatic, but I always come back to J.S. Bach and his tremendous capacity for combining mathematical order with music to create works that are far from robotic – but are in fact, sublime and complex while conveying passionate melodies. In fact, this passacaglia, played exclusively on the organ by Marshall, contained a total of 64 variations on a single, four-bar theme. This is not just a case of “well-someone-had-some-time-on-their-hands-snicker-snicker” – this is the mark of true genius!

Capriccio for Violin and Organ

Naji Hakim (b. 1955)

McLin and Marshall concluded the program with this vivacious number by modern-day composer Naji Hakim. There were a variety of elements to it, and a mixture of tempos. While my personal favorites reside in the Baroque era, I applaud the duo for the variety of their program, and for showcasing the wide range of abilities of themselves as performers, the ingenuity of the composers, and of their exemplary instruments.

Time to dust off the ol’ hobbies and see which ones we want to take to the next level.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2010. All rights reserved.

Keyboard of continuo played at Beauty and Bravura concert

The black keyboard of the continuo played by Kimberly Marshall at Arizona State University

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machu_picchuAttention, bloggers, winos and foodies!

Ever wanted to explore Peru’s legendary Inca Trail, at an elevation of 13,000 feet…with gourmet food and wine being cooked for you along the way? Of course you do! Firestone Wines is pairing up with Zephyr Adventures to send a small group, including a paid food and wine blogger, on an exotic Inca Trail hike in Peru. This lucky winner, dubbed the Firestone Wines Discoveries Pathfinder and chosen through a special contest, will receive an all-expense-paid trip, including airfare to Peru, between April 17-25, 2010, plus a $1,000 stipend. Click here for contest rules.

But wait – there’s more! There is also another winner spot for the chosen chef on the trail. See details about the Chef Challenge here.

Peru is you, baby!

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Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Musing about hapless crustaceans that are sacrificed daily for the sake of a good bite is probably not the most uplifting way to pass the time. However, I was thinking about a recent visit to one of those restaurants—the kind of place where you point to your desired lobster in a tank, he looks at you (I swear), and half an hour later, you pretend it is a completely different lobster that is served to you. This experience brings to mind a culinary conundrum. Do lobsters have feelings when they are dropped, live, into a pot of boiling water? Do they know what is happening to them?

This scene was played out a bit too comically in the recent, double-bio film, Julie & Julia. The character of food blogger Julie Powell cringed a little while trying to throw a few defenseless lobsters into a boiling pot, got her husband to help her, and that was it. Ha ha, next scene.

This lobster guilt delves much deeper into our culinary consciousness. I, for one, absolutely love lobster. So am I mean to send one to its death each time I order it in a live-tank restaurant? (Or, heck, shall I resist ordering it in general, since it was once alive somewhere?)

And I love foie gras, as well, but should I stop eating it because of some unsavory or downright cruel practices used in artificially fattening the birds’ livers? Should we shun veal because of the idea that baby calves should not be pent-up, awaiting our next piccata? What about poor, helpless snails that were just minding their own business before becoming a garlicky plate of escargot?

Of course, who’s to say that these dilemmas should be reserved for only the more exotic creatures, or for the more publicized animal-treatment scandals? Do we know that pigs, cows, and chickens do not feel pain, or cannot sense their impending doom at some point in the slaughter houses?

This is not about endangerment of species, like in the case of shark fin soup, or even whether our food is prepared safely, like the nouveau urging to avoid chicken from dirty, overcrowded poultry farms.

Incredibly, perhaps, but I continue to enjoy my meat, seafood, and poultry; and yes, I did watch the documentary Food, Inc. The solution here is not to simply buy “organic” or “grass fed”—that may solve our health concerns and fight Big Business in the process– but the question I am asking is, do animals feel pain and fear, particularly relating to their slaughter for the purpose of our next meal? And if so, is it or is it not the way of the world – similar to Mother Nature’s world of predator and prey?

If we were to apply a perfect argument, we could not draw the line about guilt over some meats but not all meats. If we did categorize these meats with our conscience in mind, would we break them down into staple meats and nice-to-have/shame-on-you meats? And which animals deserve to be assigned into either predicament?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

Twenty minutes early to a nearby appointment, and in the mood for a culinary somethin’-somethin’, I spotted ZPizza at the corner of Tatum and Thunderbird in Phoenix. Actually, I had passed by it many times before but today seemed like a day to experiment. I am quite selective with my pizza, preferring the back-East, New York pizzas with classic sauce tinged with a just-right balance of garlic, oregano, salt, and spice.

But since ZPizza does not tout itself as a New York-style anything, I put my expectations aside and asked what today’s slices were. Aside from the cheese and pepperoni standards offered, it was the Napoli that compelled me. A crispy, thin crust holds a rich, robust, almost creamy (though not cream-based) roasted garlic sauce, melted mozzarella and tomato slices which have been seared with texture from a generous sprinkling of parmesan. This flavorful grouping is accented by thick strips of fresh basil, baked into an irresistible fragrance. Yes, I was surprised. And yes, I was impressed. This was garlic with a purpose; basil with strength; and tomatoes –fresh, which I usually do not care for on a pizza – which held their own with their salty parmesan coating.

I did not realize that ZPizza uses 100% certified organic tomato sauce and 100% certified organic wheat dough, which is crafted daily and fire-baked on hot bricks. (The definition of “100% certified organic” these days could warrant its own article, but I did touch upon the benefits of organic bread just the other day). Kudos for helping us rationalize that devouring cheesy pizza is now healthy, if not fully for the body then at least for sustaining a hip local business.

ZPizza dishes up its pizza with a heart, through its ZCares program. At the time of this writing, ZPizza’s website touts that its 2009 goal is to “give away $4,000 worth of pizza per store in support of community fundraisers.” ZPizza proclaims it opened its first store in Laguna Beach, California in 1986, and has locations nationwide. This is one pizza restaurant that takes its community as seriously as its food.

But let’s get back to some of the great pizza flavors offered – after all, who does not enjoy vicarious exposure to new and delicious pizza combinations?

Artichoke hearts make a surprisingly frequent appearance on more than one pizza, including the Provence (organic tomato sauce, homemade roasted garlic sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, capers, tomatoes and fresh basil). The Casablanca also comes with that signature garlic sauce, mozzarella and artichoke hearts, but also includes rich ricotta, mushrooms, and parmesan.

The cleverly named ZBQ pizza has a BBQ sauce base with mozzarella, BBQ chicken, roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, cilantro and – for some starch with your starch – sweet corn. Most of the pizzas are priced around $10 for a small 10” pie, $17 for a medium 14”, and $21 for a large 18” extravaganza.

Another pizza category that ZPizza offers is the Rustica pizza ($8.95), which is a free-form, individual pizza, topped here in out-of-the-box combinations. Perhaps the most unusual is the Chicken Curry and Yam Rustica, which includes an exotic mix of mozzarella, curry chicken, yams, mango chutney, raisins and cilantro.

ZPizza also offers a variety of salads like Pear and Gorgonzola ($6.50/$8.50), two types of pasta ($7.50), and a wide range of sandwiches, including a Yuppie Veggie Sandwich ($5.95) and a Pollo Latino Sandwich, with marinated lime chicken breast, salsa and avocado ($6.25).

If you are gluten-sensitive, ask for the gluten-free crust (where available). And if you are reading my mind, you are now selecting the perfect Chianti to pair with the roasted garlic Napoli you will be picking up to go.

For locations and more information, visit ZPizza.com

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Ancient artifacts are displayed amid the sleek modernity of Israel's Lod Airport.

Ancient artifacts are displayed amid the sleek modernity of Israel's Lod Airport.

Israel’s Lod International Airport, just outside of Tel Aviv, boasts a light, airy and spacious interior, and my favorite touch: actual ancient artifacts displayed throughout the walkway area. It is always fascinating to see the old and the new merged together – going much further back than the Louvre’s “old/new” addition of the glass structure, and even older than the Medieval buildings of Florence being used as gelato bars.

Being juxtaposed with truly ancient artifacts can, at once, make us feel like we, too, are just ‘passing through,’ dwarfing our own existence. At the same time, there is something continual and relevant about this coexistence, reminding us that there are still many things that stand the test of time, of history, and of cultural preservation. Our spirit and energy guarantee that we are not nearly as flimsy as our fleeting, physical lives would have us believe. And that is uplifting.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

A special energy exists in a land that is so ancient, its decor is comprised of local archaeological finds.

A special energy exists in a land that is so ancient, its decor is comprised of local archaeological finds.

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Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Boutique L’chamim ("Bread Boutique") in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Organic bread. How warm and fuzzy. Just those words, organic bread, invoke images of crusty, chewy loaves that could scratch your face but are so delicious, especially when hot from the oven. These dreamy loaves would also be infused with highly unusual ingredients, lovingly prepared by a gentle artisan who likely favors handmade sweaters and vintage note cards. “Hi there!” they would cheerfully greet me as I walk into their fragrant bakery, feeling the need to hide my BlackBerry and other worldly trappings.

“Care for some lavender oat spelt bread? And a bedtime story?” Perhaps my imagination has taken over (yet again), but I do enjoy the idea of a natural, accidental sort of delicacy – the cool gourmet that wasn’t even trying – through its sheer simplicity of preparation.

And rightfully so. Who wouldn’t want their bread free of chemicals, pesticides, or other extra processing elements that diminish its otherwise grainy goodness? But…here’s the million-dollar question: Could you tell whether you were eating organic versus “regular” bread if there was no fancy sign about it? We could put this to the test by having bakers participate in a blind tasting. Would they be stumped? If not, what would be the distinguishing feature that would whisper organic to their palates?

I am still on my Israel kick from a recent trip there. If you happen to visit or live in Tel Aviv and are seeking organic breads, Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) is your answer. It is a pleasant walk away from the milestone Even G’virol Street. The Boutique sells a variety of breads and sweet baked goods, as well as a collection of jams, spreads and tapenades. Organic or not, I am partial to breads with suspended “stuff” in them (walnuts, olives, sun-dried tomatoes…). Now think back. What is the most unique bread you’ve ever tasted?

And, if blindfolded, could you distinguish between organic and non-organic bread?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Photo credit: meatcards.com

Photo credit: meatcards.com

I was thoroughly tickled to find a product that, quite literally, combines my love of food and business…and is also a perfect complement to my appreciation of bizarre and corny humor. Enter MeatCards.

A group of fearless entrepreneurs have experimented – successfully, it seems – with laser printing onto beef jerky, to create edible, and highly original business cards made of meat. Going by their Twitter handles of @eagleapex and @tikaro, they share their prototyping process via photos on Flickr and offer information about purchasing their meaty wares by following them on Twitter (@MEATCARDS).

Rather than spring for a predictable “first come, first serve” basis for creating business card prototypes for new clients, they awarded the customized samples via a most unusual competition: The first fifteen people who submitted photos accurately recreating scenes of man vs. dinosaur, based on Frank Frazetta’s stylized, pre-historic/fantasy paintings, were winners of the coveted meat cards.

MeatCards.com has swiftly been garnering global exposure, with a spot on Chinese television and a viral Internet following. The following statement from their website may sum it all up, especially for us over-the-top, business-minded carnivores: “MEAT CARDS do not fit in a Rolodex, because their deliciousness CANNOT BE CONTAINED in a Rolodex.”

Take a bite out of business, have a good chuckle, and keep your eyes open at your next networking event. The local Big Cheese may be bringing some meat to the table.

Fruit roll-up flyers, anyone?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

The world of wine blends can seem infinite, but there are several time-honored classics that dominate the shelves. There are traditional blends, such as Bordeaux’s signature reds, consisting of up to five grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec (though often just the first two to three are used). There are the heroically titled Supertuscans: Italian-inspired creative blends of various reds including the earthy Sangiovese grape.

And there is the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend from the Southern Rhone region of France, celebrated for its complex blend of up to 13 varietals (go to any late-night wine geek party to partake in a “who can name them all” contest). White and red meet on occasion, with fragrant Viognier blended in with its dark Syrah partner in some Northern Rhone wineries.

Other common blends involving white wines include the classic dessert wine trio comprising Sauternes (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle), as well as Western Australia’s Margaret River region, which favors combining rich Semillon with crisp Sauvignon Blanc. However, very rarely do we see wine blends that break the mold, especially on the shelves of a mainstream, big-box store (I realize you may be crafting a “big-box wine” pun in your head at this moment).

Yes, we are talking about WalMart wine. Specifically, their Oak Leaf Vineyards Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, which happens to be priced at $2.47 a bottle – the same price as the Boon’s Farm concoctions on the shelf below it. WalMart’s Oak Leaf comes in a series of seven wines; six are single-varietal and one is our innovative blend. The line-up includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, White Zinfandel, and Chardonnay – the latter being the only varietal packaged in the curvilinear Burgundy-shaped bottle. A nod to its Old World roots. Nice touch.

Oak Leaf Vineyard is a California-based producer who has been listed across the Internet as being part of Gallo; however, I recently found out that this was not the case (scroll down here to read a detailed profile of the true, and somewhat mysterious, origins of this “extreme value wine” giant).

What is interesting about this particular Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is that, first of all, it is an unusual combination. You just don’t find Chenin Blanc and Pinot Grigio fused together every day. Second of all – and I don’t mean any snobbery by this – I was quite surprised that they included this in the line-up at WalMart. Not that WalMart shoppers do not deserve to sample unusual wine blends, but this just seemed akin to McDonald’s having a braised short rib and mushroom risotto to-go plate for $3.59 alongside their burger menu. Uh, ok. Sure.  Great, in fact, but not the expectation.

Clearly, this is a wine to rival the other mass-marketed value wines (i.e., Trader Joe’s famous “Two-Buck Chucks,” or Charles Shaw wines).  Apparently, it is too much to ask for a vintage date on these bottles. Or tasting notes on the back label. Or any marketing copy about the vineyards, and south-facing slopes, and the painstaking care of the harvest. Just buy the thing and take it home to enjoy on the back patio with grilled chicken and herb-roasted potatoes, as I did. From this Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, you can expect a simple, refreshing burst of tart pear, sweet autumn apple, and a subtle cedar-like woodsy note.

The best part is, this wine complements a variety of situations, not least of which includes watching Jerry Springer on the tube.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

On a recent trip to Israel, it was hard to miss the fact that Tel Aviv, along with most of Israel’s cities, thrives on the energy and hub of the café. Quite similar to Europe, in fact. Unlike the Starbucks institution we know (all too well) back in the States, Israel’s cafés seem to have a different kind of energy.

First, the cafés tend to focus on being outdoors, being part of a scene, of seeing and being scene – though with a surprising lack of pretension. While there were some laptoppers I observed in the Tel Aviv cafés, it seemed that most of the caférati were there to be in the moment – to socialize, or if alone, to take in their surroundings over an “upside down coffee” (kafe hafuch), a popular way to have your brew, with the coffee sprinkled over hot milk rather than having water poured onto the coffee first. Also, while there are several café chains in Israel now – Aroma, Café Hillel, CafeCafe, Arcaffe – there still seemed to be a very individual spirit to each café, and plenty of independent locations.

Another note on Israeli cafes is that they focus on food well beyond the carb-laden, glass case offerings. You can often order a typical Israeli breakfast which includes tomato and cucumber salads chopped into painstakingly tiny pieces, with lemon and olive oil, as well as eggs, cheeses, and breads or even sandwiches. “Real” food for breakfast, if you will; perfect for the savory protein lover, like yours truly.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe fare includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

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Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Stale smoke, sticky floors, and the guy camped out ordering four double Long Island Iced Teas in plastic cups may be a thing of the past – or at least, a thing that does not plague all bars. Bar Avion, in New York’s JFK airport (Terminal 4) is bringing the swizzle back in the stick with its mod-meets-European design in calming blue tones. And don’t forget the actual food displayed at the door – a Japanese influence, perhaps? Bar Avion is a great example of the stylish way to prepare for take-off.

Does anyone have another example of a not-too-shabby airport bar?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

One of my sweet childhood memories, literally, involves a snack made in Israel: crunchy, festive little magenta spheres, strawberry flavored and known as “sweet Bamba” (as opposed to their original, burnt-orange colored, peanut-flavored counterpart, just known as “Bamba”). Given that a dessert should never be sweeter than a wine that it’s paired with (lest it make the wine taste bland or bitter), I’m curious as to pairing a ripe, honeyed Sauternes or Barsac with good ol’ strawberry Bamba.

If anyone beats me to this, let me know the results…or at least, your predictions.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

What makes a place an “institution”? No, not those kinds of institutions with straight jackets, mind you, but those places like Katz’s Deli in New York or Barnacle Billy’s in Maine. What makes a place elicit repeat business and a certain comfy notoriety? The predictable answer may be the combination of good food, hearty portions (that’s comfy!), warm service and a historic bent to the place. Add to that some childhood memories, and you’ve got the formula for a landmark locale.

Take Abulafia, the Jaffa-based boulangerie in Israel. They have expanded locations and gotten somewhat more slick in their distribution of their beigaleh and other savory baked treats, yet on a recent visit to Israel, after 18 years away, a funny thing happened to me. I did not necessarily recognize the original building (was it there in ’91?) but rather, I remembered what I used to order as a child from there…and had to get another. Take it all in: the flavorful sautée of onions, mushrooms, and yes, egg, all on a base of their hearty white beigaleh. It was nice to be back.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

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Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

The Wine Cube by Target (the big, red retailer) may do for unfussy adults what Capri Sun and Juicy Juice did for the lunch box crowd – offer a compact way to get liquid refreshment on the go. While not advocating a literal “one for the road” message here, the Wine Cube’s compact containers include a handy-dandy 4-pack of wine “juice boxes” and come in a series of varietal flavors (“Collect all 8!”): I spotted Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Cabernet Sauvignon 4-packs in the store, but according to Target’s official website, the Wine Cube also comes in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Australian Chardonnay (as distinct from the other Chardonnay in the series), and seasonal offerings of red and white Sangria…all in a cube (or a box, really). These may be just the ticket for convenience-minded picnic goers who would still like to pair their goat cheese baguettes with something other than bottled water.

The packaging is certainly convenient – there are even Wine Cube holders, for those who want to accessorize, and the cubes themselves (lined cardboard) are stackable and unbreakable. You can take these with you to the beach, tailgate parties, or any other flask-worthy event.

But here’s the rub. I tried the Chardonnay of this series, both on its own (without food first) and, to simulate an actual picnic situation, I then tried it with both a ham sandwich and with a bevy of crunchy, salty snacks (it’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it). While these may not be ideal wine pairings for a Chardonnay (I’d sooner pair a Riesling with the ham sandwich and some bubbly with the snacks), my experiment was to see if the Chardonnay’s general versatility would stand up to these unusual pairings, and to see if the quality of this particular wine would complement the grown-up picnic experience without going gourmet. After all, versatility is perhaps the true definition of an “all-purpose” picnic wine.

The verdict? This wine was not to my liking – both on its own and with any of the paired foods. This Chardonnay lacked finesse and elegance, resulting in a bulky awkwardness on the palate and about as much subtlety as ketchup on a steak. Coarse would be an accurate descriptor. The alcohol – not the fruit – was at the forefront, causing an almost medicinal reaction in my mouth. Lest I get the Target police after me for calling their wine “medicinal,” I can only attest to trying the Chardonnay varietal of the Wine Cube thus far. Granted, this Chardonnay may be more at home with grilled chicken pasta or a turkey burger and loaded baked potatoes than with Cheetos– but if that’s the case, where do the “juice boxes” come in?  Or at the very least, let’s not compromise flavor for convenience.

Have any of you had a different experience with this wine? How about recommendations for other boxed wines, or other varietals in this series?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

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Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Time magazine has done it again. In the same issue as Ted Kennedy’s retrospective and Michelle Obama’s hair (week of September 7, 2009), Time has included a newsworthy article by Lisa Abend on a topic that has raised a hot debate in both the dining scene and the legislature – the ethics (and legality) of the force-feeding of geese to fatten their livers for the creation of foie gras. Foie gras is goose liver that has been prepared into a silky, flavorful delicacy favored by many a European and American.

The practice of force-feeding grain through a feeding tube to hapless animals in order to engorge their liver for the human “yum” factor has garnered both media and governmental attention, to the point that force-fed foie gras has become an outlawed product in certain foodie cities, including New York City. This cultural phenomenon that has quickly translated into an industry-wide economic scenario is now being revisited, thanks to the alternative philosophies of Eduardo Sousa, a “goose whisperer” who also raises about 1,000 geese in a natural environment in Extremadura, Spain.

Sousa’s answer to the industrial-style, forced fattening of the geese is to emulate their natural environment, from how they are birthed to how they forage for their food, and thereby “fooling” them into thinking they are wild, and not domesticated. This is directly beneficial in solving the natural-but-miniscule-liver issue often resulting from the disbanding of force-feeding. Sousa explains in Abend’s article that if you convince the geese that they are, in fact, “wild” and not in captivity, they will be influenced fully by their natural instincts. And then, he explains, the weather turns cold and in their instinctual state, the geese begin gorging themselves in preparation for their (imagined) long, airborne journey ahead. Ah…so is self-gorging the solution to force-feeding, then? Either way, this may pave the way for a new look at foie gras production practices and their ramifications, from gavel to table.

The foie gras issue is a tough issue. And let me just say that I am a huge fan of the stuff. Where do we draw the line with “humane” food consumption? If we boycott foie gras because of the force-feeding, are we still any better than the next person as we continue to eat veal, or eggs from caged chickens, or pork from pigs that were treated meanly at the feed lot? Heck, do we need to just say no to leather altogether?

Where does it end? And what are your thoughts?

*Further reading: for a Q & A article about Mark Caro, author of The Foie Gras Wars (and a disturbing photo of a tube-fed duck), click here.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

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Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

If Barbie dolls drank wine, they might pick this stylish label to match their sun dresses (Summer Sipping Barbie, anyone?). But as for the contents inside the bottle, au contraire, mon frere. Festive, airy, and refreshing, Baillieu Vineyard’s 2007 Rosé is made from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes (of Champagne-region fame), gently pressed into a crisp, fragrant sensation. The color is beautiful, and so is the versatility. Pair this with pasta primavera, grilled vegetables, or as I did, a generous piece of veal, simply prepared in a schnitzel style with an herbed vegetable mélange. This is a dry wine with a faint sweetness on the nose reminiscent of strawberries smeared onto rainy mineral stones.

The setting in which I experienced this wine made this wine that much more of an experience – the charming Merricks General Store in the Mornington Peninsula, in Victoria, Australia. This historic outpost, once an actual general store back in the 1920s, now boasts an impressive city-grade menu, in multiple versions. Its Cellar Room menu boasts interesting charcuterie items such as Barossa chicken liver parfait, ocean trout rillettes, and herbed labna balls (a nod to the Middle Eastern cheese-style yogurt spread), as well as cozy vittles like hearty soups and crusty breads. Its Dining Room menu features thoughtful starters like crème frâiche and gorgonzola pannacotta with prosciutto and honey cardamon roasted figs, and entrées such as beetroot gnocchi with mushrooms, walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and fried sage; and saffron and leek risotto with swimmer crab meat and cured ocean trout. (Breakfast/brunch is also available).

Clearly, this former supply outpost has evolved with a playful sophistication that’s a surprising treat for its rustic roots. Merricks General Store (apparently no apostrophe) is also the showcase restaurant for three collections of wine: those of Elgee Park, Mornington Peninsula’s oldest winery; Quealy, featuring winemaker Kathleen Quealy in conjunction with Balnarring Vineyard, and including some interesting blends, like the white Pobblebonk Italian blend, and Rageous, an unusual red blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot; and of course, Baillieu Vineyards, featuring our esteemed rosé and others, all featuring those pretty labels by artist Julie Johnston. Wine, art, and the delicious pastime of hanging out at a charming foodie general store. No complaints.

Does anyone have an unusual gem of a rosé to share with us?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Proof of rose's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

Proof of rosé's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

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