Wine

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I couldn't help but display my Chanukah cookies instead of photos of wine...they came out so nicely!

Combining family, food and festivities, Hanukkah is truly a holiday experienced through the senses. Add some wine to the mix with these tailored tips, and you’ll up the simcha factor faster than a spinning dreidel.

With wine, it is important to relax and ultimately drink what you enjoy. Hanukkah’s treats and wintry backdrop provide just the occasion to experiment with food pairings. The first four tips offer advice on tasting and pairing.

1. Discover the new kosher wines. Gone are the days of kosher wines being synonymous with thick, syrupy concoctions (though these can get quite tasty during a four-cup seder). Today’s kosher wines, from Israel to the U.S. and even Australia, have begun garnering serious awards, and are redefining our concept of Jewish wines for the chagim.

2. Hanukkat Bayit. In Hebrew, Hanukkah means “rededication,” and what better way to celebrate this cozy festival of lights than to host a Hanukkah wine tasting with good friends, featuring – symbolically – eight wines for the group to try.
 

3. The new pairing theory. Did you know that the old “red wine with red meat, white wines with white meat” adage was born post-World War II, as an attempt by European wine promoters to target the steak-happy U.S. market? Some exceptions apply to that rule, such as the classic pairing of Pinot Noir and salmon, so modern wine specialists recommend pairing foods and wines that share equal heft or intensity of flavor, so as not to overwhelm one of the components. For example, chicken with herbs may be delicate enough for a white Chenin Blanc, but with a dark mushroom sauce, the chicken may be better suited to a red Beaujolais or Burgundy.

4. Wine’s yin and yang. Another simple pairing strategy is to take shared elements found in a food and a wine, and pair them in a complementary manner. Think of a crispy, fried latke and a buttery, oaked Chardonnay, both sharing a heavy richness on the tongue. An equally intriguing palate pleaser results from contrasting two elements – such as that hot, oily latke with a sip of crisp, clean Sauvignon Blanc, a delicate wine whose citruslike acidity cuts through the oil and cleanses the palate.

While the true essence of Hanukkah hardly emphasizes presents, it helps to have a plan for purchasing wines for a special friend, colleague or hostess. These next four strategies will keep your gift in their hearts long after the eighth candle has waned.

5. Pick a relevant region. Today, all 50 states make wine. If you have a loved one who will be visiting from New York, for example, why not give them a bottle of fine, red Meritage from the North Fork of Long Island?
 

6. Mark a meaningful year. Perhaps your niece got engaged in 2003. Why not track down a case or a magnum (large-format bottle) of a rich Cabernet Sauvignon from that vintage year?

7. Hone in on a hobby. With an abundance of clever winery names and creative labels available, this is one time when judging a book by its cover is encouraged. There are wine labels with favorite animals, tongue-in-cheek humor or even a sultry bottle of Marilyn Merlot for the fans.

8. Bundle wines from Israel and the Diaspora. Give a multiple gift by selecting the recipient’s favorite type of wine and gathering an Israeli version along with one from the U.S., Australia or Europe. Call this the “Nes Gadol Haya Po v’Sham” gift: A great miracle happened here and there!

Spanning the globe and various budgets, here are three kosher wines that pair smartly with Hanukkah fare.

Sauvignon Blanc: Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc

The signature citrus and gooseberry flavor combination put Marlborough, New Zealand, on the world map for notable Sauvignon Blanc production, and this example is just that – and perfect as a crisp contrast to hot latkes.
(White wine from New Zealand. Kashrut index: Mevushal, OU. Approximately $16/bottle)

Chardonnay: Altoona Hills Chardonnay

The full-bodied fruit and creamy oak essence lend a vibrant touch to this classic white sipper. With an exceptionally rich structure, this Australian landmark wine can easily complement any oil-laden Hanukkah treats.
(White wine from Australia. Kashrut index: Mevushal, OU. Approximately $8/bottle)

Pinot Noir: Galil Pinot Noir

This Israeli gem demonstrates the fruit-forward New World style of Pinot Noir, featuring tangy, earthy notes that showcase signature sour cherries and berries. Food-friendly and versatile, it is equally at home with schnitzel, mushroom-based dishes or grilled salmon. (Red wine from Israel. Kashrut index: Non-mevushal, OK. Approximately $19/bottle)

Gilat Ben-Dor, MBA, CSW is a wine educator and sommelier. She is the director of Renaissance Wine Academy™ in Scottsdale, Arizona, which offers wine education, keynote speaking, and consulting for corporate and private clients. Visit RenaissanceWineAcademy.com for more details.

© Gilat Ben-Dor, 2008-2010.

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Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

The world of wine blends can seem infinite, but there are several time-honored classics that dominate the shelves. There are traditional blends, such as Bordeaux’s signature reds, consisting of up to five grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec (though often just the first two to three are used). There are the heroically titled Supertuscans: Italian-inspired creative blends of various reds including the earthy Sangiovese grape.

And there is the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend from the Southern Rhone region of France, celebrated for its complex blend of up to 13 varietals (go to any late-night wine geek party to partake in a “who can name them all” contest). White and red meet on occasion, with fragrant Viognier blended in with its dark Syrah partner in some Northern Rhone wineries.

Other common blends involving white wines include the classic dessert wine trio comprising Sauternes (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle), as well as Western Australia’s Margaret River region, which favors combining rich Semillon with crisp Sauvignon Blanc. However, very rarely do we see wine blends that break the mold, especially on the shelves of a mainstream, big-box store (I realize you may be crafting a “big-box wine” pun in your head at this moment).

Yes, we are talking about WalMart wine. Specifically, their Oak Leaf Vineyards Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, which happens to be priced at $2.47 a bottle – the same price as the Boon’s Farm concoctions on the shelf below it. WalMart’s Oak Leaf comes in a series of seven wines; six are single-varietal and one is our innovative blend. The line-up includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, White Zinfandel, and Chardonnay – the latter being the only varietal packaged in the curvilinear Burgundy-shaped bottle. A nod to its Old World roots. Nice touch.

Oak Leaf Vineyard is a California-based producer who has been listed across the Internet as being part of Gallo; however, I recently found out that this was not the case (scroll down here to read a detailed profile of the true, and somewhat mysterious, origins of this “extreme value wine” giant).

What is interesting about this particular Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is that, first of all, it is an unusual combination. You just don’t find Chenin Blanc and Pinot Grigio fused together every day. Second of all – and I don’t mean any snobbery by this – I was quite surprised that they included this in the line-up at WalMart. Not that WalMart shoppers do not deserve to sample unusual wine blends, but this just seemed akin to McDonald’s having a braised short rib and mushroom risotto to-go plate for $3.59 alongside their burger menu. Uh, ok. Sure.  Great, in fact, but not the expectation.

Clearly, this is a wine to rival the other mass-marketed value wines (i.e., Trader Joe’s famous “Two-Buck Chucks,” or Charles Shaw wines).  Apparently, it is too much to ask for a vintage date on these bottles. Or tasting notes on the back label. Or any marketing copy about the vineyards, and south-facing slopes, and the painstaking care of the harvest. Just buy the thing and take it home to enjoy on the back patio with grilled chicken and herb-roasted potatoes, as I did. From this Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, you can expect a simple, refreshing burst of tart pear, sweet autumn apple, and a subtle cedar-like woodsy note.

The best part is, this wine complements a variety of situations, not least of which includes watching Jerry Springer on the tube.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

The Wine Cube by Target (the big, red retailer) may do for unfussy adults what Capri Sun and Juicy Juice did for the lunch box crowd – offer a compact way to get liquid refreshment on the go. While not advocating a literal “one for the road” message here, the Wine Cube’s compact containers include a handy-dandy 4-pack of wine “juice boxes” and come in a series of varietal flavors (“Collect all 8!”): I spotted Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Cabernet Sauvignon 4-packs in the store, but according to Target’s official website, the Wine Cube also comes in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Australian Chardonnay (as distinct from the other Chardonnay in the series), and seasonal offerings of red and white Sangria…all in a cube (or a box, really). These may be just the ticket for convenience-minded picnic goers who would still like to pair their goat cheese baguettes with something other than bottled water.

The packaging is certainly convenient – there are even Wine Cube holders, for those who want to accessorize, and the cubes themselves (lined cardboard) are stackable and unbreakable. You can take these with you to the beach, tailgate parties, or any other flask-worthy event.

But here’s the rub. I tried the Chardonnay of this series, both on its own (without food first) and, to simulate an actual picnic situation, I then tried it with both a ham sandwich and with a bevy of crunchy, salty snacks (it’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it). While these may not be ideal wine pairings for a Chardonnay (I’d sooner pair a Riesling with the ham sandwich and some bubbly with the snacks), my experiment was to see if the Chardonnay’s general versatility would stand up to these unusual pairings, and to see if the quality of this particular wine would complement the grown-up picnic experience without going gourmet. After all, versatility is perhaps the true definition of an “all-purpose” picnic wine.

The verdict? This wine was not to my liking – both on its own and with any of the paired foods. This Chardonnay lacked finesse and elegance, resulting in a bulky awkwardness on the palate and about as much subtlety as ketchup on a steak. Coarse would be an accurate descriptor. The alcohol – not the fruit – was at the forefront, causing an almost medicinal reaction in my mouth. Lest I get the Target police after me for calling their wine “medicinal,” I can only attest to trying the Chardonnay varietal of the Wine Cube thus far. Granted, this Chardonnay may be more at home with grilled chicken pasta or a turkey burger and loaded baked potatoes than with Cheetos– but if that’s the case, where do the “juice boxes” come in?  Or at the very least, let’s not compromise flavor for convenience.

Have any of you had a different experience with this wine? How about recommendations for other boxed wines, or other varietals in this series?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

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Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

Australia's Baillieu Vineyards Rose is both pretty and versatile, though may be hard to come by stateside.

If Barbie dolls drank wine, they might pick this stylish label to match their sun dresses (Summer Sipping Barbie, anyone?). But as for the contents inside the bottle, au contraire, mon frere. Festive, airy, and refreshing, Baillieu Vineyard’s 2007 Rosé is made from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes (of Champagne-region fame), gently pressed into a crisp, fragrant sensation. The color is beautiful, and so is the versatility. Pair this with pasta primavera, grilled vegetables, or as I did, a generous piece of veal, simply prepared in a schnitzel style with an herbed vegetable mélange. This is a dry wine with a faint sweetness on the nose reminiscent of strawberries smeared onto rainy mineral stones.

The setting in which I experienced this wine made this wine that much more of an experience – the charming Merricks General Store in the Mornington Peninsula, in Victoria, Australia. This historic outpost, once an actual general store back in the 1920s, now boasts an impressive city-grade menu, in multiple versions. Its Cellar Room menu boasts interesting charcuterie items such as Barossa chicken liver parfait, ocean trout rillettes, and herbed labna balls (a nod to the Middle Eastern cheese-style yogurt spread), as well as cozy vittles like hearty soups and crusty breads. Its Dining Room menu features thoughtful starters like crème frâiche and gorgonzola pannacotta with prosciutto and honey cardamon roasted figs, and entrées such as beetroot gnocchi with mushrooms, walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and fried sage; and saffron and leek risotto with swimmer crab meat and cured ocean trout. (Breakfast/brunch is also available).

Clearly, this former supply outpost has evolved with a playful sophistication that’s a surprising treat for its rustic roots. Merricks General Store (apparently no apostrophe) is also the showcase restaurant for three collections of wine: those of Elgee Park, Mornington Peninsula’s oldest winery; Quealy, featuring winemaker Kathleen Quealy in conjunction with Balnarring Vineyard, and including some interesting blends, like the white Pobblebonk Italian blend, and Rageous, an unusual red blend of Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot; and of course, Baillieu Vineyards, featuring our esteemed rosé and others, all featuring those pretty labels by artist Julie Johnston. Wine, art, and the delicious pastime of hanging out at a charming foodie general store. No complaints.

Does anyone have an unusual gem of a rosé to share with us?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Proof of rose's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

Proof of rosé's versatility: from pasta to vegetables to schnitzelled veal in a single bound.

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Pair hot dogs and mustard with a mildly sweet wine like Riesling or Gewürtztraminer for a sweet-and-spicy contrast.

Pair hot dogs and mustard with a mildly sweet version of Riesling or Gewürtztraminer for a sweet-and-spicy contrast.

The first thing I’d like to get off of my chest is that, no, not all Rieslings are cloyingly sweet, and no, “Gewürtztraminer” is not what we say when someone sneezes. Close, but not quite.

Having said that, there is a phenomenon in which sweet wines tend to calm down spicy foods (this works great with Asian cuisine hot with chili flakes, paired with a well-chilled Riesling). In fact, it is fun to test out this tried-and-true principle in our own backyards, pairing spicy brats, Italian sausages, or hot dogs (the milder cousin, but flavorfully salty) along with some off-dry (and yes, some moderately sweet versions of) Riesling and Gewürtztraminer.

I recently paired these not in a grassy suburban backyard, but in a television studio during my appearance on the morning TV segment of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV). One way to build an even stronger contrast of the hot versus sweet is to up the ante on both ends: if you start with regular hot dogs, add some heat to them with different types of spicy mustards. If you are like me, you relate to the foodie’s dream pantry of having 23 different types of mustards (“No two are the same!” we’d argue, as we pondered over a jar of whole-seed or garlic-herb Dijon). The spicier the mustard, the sweeter you can go (to a point—but try and try again. This is not such terrible work).

The Riesling can come from Old World sources (i.e., European), especially Germany, in which the sweetness levels are officially classified, and acidity is known to balance sweetness and help avert a syrupy fate; or New World sources, like Australia and California, in which you will find drier versions much more commonly.  Older Rieslings are known to have a slight yet distinct petrol aroma (not kidding) but this will likely not come into play if you purchase New World brands geared towards the more ready-to-drink market.

Gewürtztraminer, which is (not surprisingly) thought to hail from the town of Traminer (in Northern Italy, near Alto Adige), is often associated with Riesling if only for their common propensity for sweetness and heady aromas. However, Gewürtztraminer does not typically reach the acidity levels of Riesling and is well-known for its signature notes of lychee fruit.

The Asian cuisine and Riesling phenomenon is a fun one to try, but today, let’s break out the buns, dogs, and mustard, and have an Oktoberfest in our mouths with our guests of honor: Riesling and Gewürtztraminer.

This post is part of a series on summer wine pairings. To see the starting post, click here.

Good examples: Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2008 (Washington, approx. $9); Fetzer Gewürtztraminer Valley Oaks 2007 (California, $7); Mirassou Monterey Riesling 2007 (California, $9).

Even sweeter picks: The spicier the food, the sweeter the wine to complement it. For traditionally sweet Rieslings, try one of these age-worthy gems from the German “doctors”: Dr. Loosen “Dr. L” Riesling 2008 (Germany, $10); Dr. Pauly Noble House Riesling 2005 (Germany, $11); Dr. Thanisch Bernkasteler Lay Auslese 2005 (Germany, $37).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Get out of auto-pilot mode and reach for a non-Cabernet with your burger.

Get out of auto-pilot mode and reach for a non-Cabernet with your burger.

There is something primal and so satisfying about the classic, hearty combination of “reds with reds.” And for summer, this hot match can still sizzle: imagine a meaty, iron-rich burger in one hand, with juices dripping down your wrist, and in the other hand, perfectly poised, a glass of robust red wine to match. Just when you thought things could not get better—oh yes, they can.

When beef comes to mind, the first red wine that is often on our lips (oh no, more puns!) is a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon. Nothing wrong with that. However, with summer here, I suspect that even those who love wool suits in the winter don a different outfit when the mercury rises into sweaty territory. Well, our palates are no less seasonal. How about lightening things up in the red wine department, and getting out of auto-pilot selections, for a change?

Those juicy burgers on the grill would sure love to have a summer fling with some Southern Rhône wines, such as those from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, made from up to 13 different types of grapes (though usually a primary blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and sometimes Syrah). Northern Rhone rules the roost when it comes to Syrah, such as wines from the well-regarded Cotes-Rotie (“Roasted Coast”) and Hermitage; these are Syrah wines made in the elegant “Old World” style. However, bold, drippy burgers are often most at home with equally spunky wines, and in this case, I would recommend a high-energy Shiraz from Australia. (That is NOT to say that all Australian Shirazes are the same, either, though that is for another day’s discussion…). Of course, Cotes-du-Rhône spans a bit of the region and you can find some great values from there (see examples below).

Speaking of toppings for burgers, what’s a great cheeseburger wine? A great red sipper – big enough to stand up to a bulky cheeseburger, but smooth enough to sip solo while waiting for the food to be ready – is a jammy Malbec; serious plum and blackberry but without as much tannic gravel going on as the biggest of reds. Envision the curvy silhouette of a lima-bean shaped pool instead of a hard-edged Olympic-sized square – the former is more rounded, but a real pool nonetheless.

Merlot, particularly when blended (with Malbec, even), can offer background structure but enough softness to highlight interesting toppings on the burgers without competing for primary flavor status; finally, it is always fun to open up a bottle of Beaujolais, such as Beaujolais-Villages (not to be confused with the annual Beaujolais Nouveau, which comes out in November, and would be quite the anachronism here). While designed not to be a big, over-the-top wine, Beaujolais wines are made of the Gamay grape and are often crafted in a manner that guides and slides the wine into our glass and into our throats without too much fuss. And that, my friends, is what summer is all about, is it not?

This post is part of a series of “Picnic Pairings” for summer food and wine.  Check out the first series post here.

Good examples: Jaboulet Cotes-du-Rhône Parallelle 45 2007 (Rhône, France, $12); Layer Cake Shiraz 2008 (Barossa Valley, Australia, $17); Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2007 (Beaujolais (multi-village), France, $14).

Extreme value pick: Panilonco Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua, Chile, $4).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Branch out into colorful rosé territory with a match of salmon and grilled veggies.

Branch out into colorful rosé territory with a match of salmon and grilled veggies.

The belief that fish can only pair with white wines is not always the case. The main factor to consider is how tannic (or how heavy and mouth-drying) your red wine is, as well as the weight and texture of the fish. There are many fish in the sea, and thus, all fish were not created equal. Lucky for us, salmon is a hearty fish, both in flavor and texture, and can withstand some heftier wines within the “light” category. A classic pairing of salmon is, in fact, Pinot Noir – the finicky, lighter-bodied red wine made famous in the movie Sideways. Somewhere in between sippy-sip white wine land and big-bad-Barolo land lies rosé wine. Yes, it’s the pink wine – though to be fair, rosés can range in hue from the faintest blush to a deep, peach-like salmon color (pun intended).

Rosés can be made from various grape varietals and the winemaking style contributes much to the final sweetness level of the wine. Unlike the well-known “sweet pink wine” that is white zinfandel (nothing wrong with it, but it spawned a widespread misconception that all pink wines are sweet), only a fraction of  rosé wines are actually downright sweet. Go ahead and give the drier varieties, especially from Bandol, Provence and Rhône, a try with your next meal of grilled salmon. The fruitiness in the rosé will not be cloying, but will provide a lift to each substantial morsel of salmon. This will work nicely with herbs grilled with the salmon, as well.

Rosés are versatile enough to also accompany that beautiful platter of grilled or roasted vegetables you’ve laid out on a pretty platter. Pairing rosé with colorful foods results in quite a feast for the eyes as well as the palate, and is yet another fun way to branch out over the summer.

This post is part of a series about summer food and wine. See the first post in this series.

Good examples: Try French Rosés from Bandol, Tavel, Gigondas or Cotes de Provence (i.e., Chateau du Rouet, Cotes de Provence; $15), or Francis Coppola, Sofia Rosé 2008 (California, $18). Value pick: La Ferme Julien Cotes du Ventoux Rosé 2007 (France, $5).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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This corn is not anemic – it is white corn, so fresh and sweet, you may forego dessert!

This corn is not anemic – it is white corn, so fresh and sweet, you may forego dessert!

Happy 4th of July! For your next backyard picnic, let’s put together a classic complementary pairing: Chardonnay and, yes, corn on the cob (don’t forget the butter). It’s not that the corn and the Chardonnay themselves are a classic pair, specifically, but the idea that a moderately or highly oaked Chardonnay is paired with a buttery dish makes for a harmonious match in the mouth. The sweetness and butter of the corn targets the toasty, buttery, sometimes vanilla-like that oak aging often lends to Chardonnay – the wine “chameleon” – so that similar elements in the food and wine are keenly matched, like a frilly bedroom set. Try this with buttered popcorn, too, and you’ll see this principle once more.

This post is part of a “Picnic Pairings” series, which starts here.

Good examples: Matchbook Chardonnay 2007 (California, $18); A to Z Chardonnay (Oregon, $17); Value pick: Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2007 (Australia, $9).

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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The full “Picnic Pairings” set-up from my 6/29/09 live taping of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV7).

The full “Picnic Pairings” set-up from my 6/29/09 live taping of “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV7).

To commemorate the 4th of July, I was recently called in to re-appear on the Arizona-based morning show, “The Pat McMahon Show” (AZTV). For this segment, I prepared a bountiful spread of classic cook-out fare, along with a line-up of my recommended wine pairings. As I set up a plate of fried chicken here, a slab of grilled salmon there, and some extra-creamy potato salad, it occurred to me that on the actual 4th of July, back in 1776, the last thing on peoples’ minds would have been grilling techniques or chilling some Pinot Grigio before company arrives. Still, things have somehow morphed into this great grilling tradition now, celebrating good times, great friends, and fantastic wine pairings that go nicely with the full line-up of barbecue bites. I have laid out five great food and wine matches, in the form of a series, which can be enjoyed well into the summer. Follow along in the days ahead!

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spring_gilat-cr

Welcome to Grapes and Gusto

Welcome to Grapes and Gusto, the blog about living a rich, authentic, and mouthwatering life – heavily accented by notable wines, memorable meals, exhilarating travels, and other creative adventures of the five senses.

Through this blog, I look forward to sharing a slice –not a skimpy sliver, but a big, luscious slice – of life using wine as the tool of choice to enhance life’s other pleasures. From an appreciation of culture and the arts, to the spicy ventures found by traveling, to those quiet moments staying in, musing on our lives and Main Purpose – wine is there as a trusted partner…with its soulmate – captivating cuisine, of many sorts.

So stay tuned as this blog unveils a chronicle of good living, the pursuit of depth and abundance, some unabashed hedonism, and a pulse on current trends, products, events and experiences. I invite you to actively join me on this journey, and participate with your comments, suggestions, stories and must-try recommendations.

Here’s to a life of pleasure without measure; a life of Grapes and Gusto!

Cheers,

Gilat

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