September 2009

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machu_picchuAttention, bloggers, winos and foodies!

Ever wanted to explore Peru’s legendary Inca Trail, at an elevation of 13,000 feet…with gourmet food and wine being cooked for you along the way? Of course you do! Firestone Wines is pairing up with Zephyr Adventures to send a small group, including a paid food and wine blogger, on an exotic Inca Trail hike in Peru. This lucky winner, dubbed the Firestone Wines Discoveries Pathfinder and chosen through a special contest, will receive an all-expense-paid trip, including airfare to Peru, between April 17-25, 2010, plus a $1,000 stipend. Click here for contest rules.

But wait – there’s more! There is also another winner spot for the chosen chef on the trail. See details about the Chef Challenge here.

Peru is you, baby!

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Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Do lobsters feel pain or fear as we boil them live? Do we really want to know?

Musing about hapless crustaceans that are sacrificed daily for the sake of a good bite is probably not the most uplifting way to pass the time. However, I was thinking about a recent visit to one of those restaurants—the kind of place where you point to your desired lobster in a tank, he looks at you (I swear), and half an hour later, you pretend it is a completely different lobster that is served to you. This experience brings to mind a culinary conundrum. Do lobsters have feelings when they are dropped, live, into a pot of boiling water? Do they know what is happening to them?

This scene was played out a bit too comically in the recent, double-bio film, Julie & Julia. The character of food blogger Julie Powell cringed a little while trying to throw a few defenseless lobsters into a boiling pot, got her husband to help her, and that was it. Ha ha, next scene.

This lobster guilt delves much deeper into our culinary consciousness. I, for one, absolutely love lobster. So am I mean to send one to its death each time I order it in a live-tank restaurant? (Or, heck, shall I resist ordering it in general, since it was once alive somewhere?)

And I love foie gras, as well, but should I stop eating it because of some unsavory or downright cruel practices used in artificially fattening the birds’ livers? Should we shun veal because of the idea that baby calves should not be pent-up, awaiting our next piccata? What about poor, helpless snails that were just minding their own business before becoming a garlicky plate of escargot?

Of course, who’s to say that these dilemmas should be reserved for only the more exotic creatures, or for the more publicized animal-treatment scandals? Do we know that pigs, cows, and chickens do not feel pain, or cannot sense their impending doom at some point in the slaughter houses?

This is not about endangerment of species, like in the case of shark fin soup, or even whether our food is prepared safely, like the nouveau urging to avoid chicken from dirty, overcrowded poultry farms.

Incredibly, perhaps, but I continue to enjoy my meat, seafood, and poultry; and yes, I did watch the documentary Food, Inc. The solution here is not to simply buy “organic” or “grass fed”—that may solve our health concerns and fight Big Business in the process– but the question I am asking is, do animals feel pain and fear, particularly relating to their slaughter for the purpose of our next meal? And if so, is it or is it not the way of the world – similar to Mother Nature’s world of predator and prey?

If we were to apply a perfect argument, we could not draw the line about guilt over some meats but not all meats. If we did categorize these meats with our conscience in mind, would we break them down into staple meats and nice-to-have/shame-on-you meats? And which animals deserve to be assigned into either predicament?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

ZPizza's Napoli thin-crust pizza is ideal for roasted-garlic lovers.

Twenty minutes early to a nearby appointment, and in the mood for a culinary somethin’-somethin’, I spotted ZPizza at the corner of Tatum and Thunderbird in Phoenix. Actually, I had passed by it many times before but today seemed like a day to experiment. I am quite selective with my pizza, preferring the back-East, New York pizzas with classic sauce tinged with a just-right balance of garlic, oregano, salt, and spice.

But since ZPizza does not tout itself as a New York-style anything, I put my expectations aside and asked what today’s slices were. Aside from the cheese and pepperoni standards offered, it was the Napoli that compelled me. A crispy, thin crust holds a rich, robust, almost creamy (though not cream-based) roasted garlic sauce, melted mozzarella and tomato slices which have been seared with texture from a generous sprinkling of parmesan. This flavorful grouping is accented by thick strips of fresh basil, baked into an irresistible fragrance. Yes, I was surprised. And yes, I was impressed. This was garlic with a purpose; basil with strength; and tomatoes –fresh, which I usually do not care for on a pizza – which held their own with their salty parmesan coating.

I did not realize that ZPizza uses 100% certified organic tomato sauce and 100% certified organic wheat dough, which is crafted daily and fire-baked on hot bricks. (The definition of “100% certified organic” these days could warrant its own article, but I did touch upon the benefits of organic bread just the other day). Kudos for helping us rationalize that devouring cheesy pizza is now healthy, if not fully for the body then at least for sustaining a hip local business.

ZPizza dishes up its pizza with a heart, through its ZCares program. At the time of this writing, ZPizza’s website touts that its 2009 goal is to “give away $4,000 worth of pizza per store in support of community fundraisers.” ZPizza proclaims it opened its first store in Laguna Beach, California in 1986, and has locations nationwide. This is one pizza restaurant that takes its community as seriously as its food.

But let’s get back to some of the great pizza flavors offered – after all, who does not enjoy vicarious exposure to new and delicious pizza combinations?

Artichoke hearts make a surprisingly frequent appearance on more than one pizza, including the Provence (organic tomato sauce, homemade roasted garlic sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, capers, tomatoes and fresh basil). The Casablanca also comes with that signature garlic sauce, mozzarella and artichoke hearts, but also includes rich ricotta, mushrooms, and parmesan.

The cleverly named ZBQ pizza has a BBQ sauce base with mozzarella, BBQ chicken, roasted peppers, red onions, tomatoes, cilantro and – for some starch with your starch – sweet corn. Most of the pizzas are priced around $10 for a small 10” pie, $17 for a medium 14”, and $21 for a large 18” extravaganza.

Another pizza category that ZPizza offers is the Rustica pizza ($8.95), which is a free-form, individual pizza, topped here in out-of-the-box combinations. Perhaps the most unusual is the Chicken Curry and Yam Rustica, which includes an exotic mix of mozzarella, curry chicken, yams, mango chutney, raisins and cilantro.

ZPizza also offers a variety of salads like Pear and Gorgonzola ($6.50/$8.50), two types of pasta ($7.50), and a wide range of sandwiches, including a Yuppie Veggie Sandwich ($5.95) and a Pollo Latino Sandwich, with marinated lime chicken breast, salsa and avocado ($6.25).

If you are gluten-sensitive, ask for the gluten-free crust (where available). And if you are reading my mind, you are now selecting the perfect Chianti to pair with the roasted garlic Napoli you will be picking up to go.

For locations and more information, visit ZPizza.com

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Ancient artifacts are displayed amid the sleek modernity of Israel's Lod Airport.

Ancient artifacts are displayed amid the sleek modernity of Israel's Lod Airport.

Israel’s Lod International Airport, just outside of Tel Aviv, boasts a light, airy and spacious interior, and my favorite touch: actual ancient artifacts displayed throughout the walkway area. It is always fascinating to see the old and the new merged together – going much further back than the Louvre’s “old/new” addition of the glass structure, and even older than the Medieval buildings of Florence being used as gelato bars.

Being juxtaposed with truly ancient artifacts can, at once, make us feel like we, too, are just ‘passing through,’ dwarfing our own existence. At the same time, there is something continual and relevant about this coexistence, reminding us that there are still many things that stand the test of time, of history, and of cultural preservation. Our spirit and energy guarantee that we are not nearly as flimsy as our fleeting, physical lives would have us believe. And that is uplifting.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

A special energy exists in a land that is so ancient, its decor is comprised of local archaeological finds.

A special energy exists in a land that is so ancient, its decor is comprised of local archaeological finds.

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Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Boutique L’chamim ("Bread Boutique") in northern Tel Aviv offers a tempting array of goody-encrusted breads.

Organic bread. How warm and fuzzy. Just those words, organic bread, invoke images of crusty, chewy loaves that could scratch your face but are so delicious, especially when hot from the oven. These dreamy loaves would also be infused with highly unusual ingredients, lovingly prepared by a gentle artisan who likely favors handmade sweaters and vintage note cards. “Hi there!” they would cheerfully greet me as I walk into their fragrant bakery, feeling the need to hide my BlackBerry and other worldly trappings.

“Care for some lavender oat spelt bread? And a bedtime story?” Perhaps my imagination has taken over (yet again), but I do enjoy the idea of a natural, accidental sort of delicacy – the cool gourmet that wasn’t even trying – through its sheer simplicity of preparation.

And rightfully so. Who wouldn’t want their bread free of chemicals, pesticides, or other extra processing elements that diminish its otherwise grainy goodness? But…here’s the million-dollar question: Could you tell whether you were eating organic versus “regular” bread if there was no fancy sign about it? We could put this to the test by having bakers participate in a blind tasting. Would they be stumped? If not, what would be the distinguishing feature that would whisper organic to their palates?

I am still on my Israel kick from a recent trip there. If you happen to visit or live in Tel Aviv and are seeking organic breads, Boutique L’chamim (Bread Boutique) is your answer. It is a pleasant walk away from the milestone Even G’virol Street. The Boutique sells a variety of breads and sweet baked goods, as well as a collection of jams, spreads and tapenades. Organic or not, I am partial to breads with suspended “stuff” in them (walnuts, olives, sun-dried tomatoes…). Now think back. What is the most unique bread you’ve ever tasted?

And, if blindfolded, could you distinguish between organic and non-organic bread?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Photo credit: meatcards.com

Photo credit: meatcards.com

I was thoroughly tickled to find a product that, quite literally, combines my love of food and business…and is also a perfect complement to my appreciation of bizarre and corny humor. Enter MeatCards.

A group of fearless entrepreneurs have experimented – successfully, it seems – with laser printing onto beef jerky, to create edible, and highly original business cards made of meat. Going by their Twitter handles of @eagleapex and @tikaro, they share their prototyping process via photos on Flickr and offer information about purchasing their meaty wares by following them on Twitter (@MEATCARDS).

Rather than spring for a predictable “first come, first serve” basis for creating business card prototypes for new clients, they awarded the customized samples via a most unusual competition: The first fifteen people who submitted photos accurately recreating scenes of man vs. dinosaur, based on Frank Frazetta’s stylized, pre-historic/fantasy paintings, were winners of the coveted meat cards.

MeatCards.com has swiftly been garnering global exposure, with a spot on Chinese television and a viral Internet following. The following statement from their website may sum it all up, especially for us over-the-top, business-minded carnivores: “MEAT CARDS do not fit in a Rolodex, because their deliciousness CANNOT BE CONTAINED in a Rolodex.”

Take a bite out of business, have a good chuckle, and keep your eyes open at your next networking event. The local Big Cheese may be bringing some meat to the table.

Fruit roll-up flyers, anyone?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

Who knew? Oak Leaf Vineyards' Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is a surprising product on WalMart shelves.

The world of wine blends can seem infinite, but there are several time-honored classics that dominate the shelves. There are traditional blends, such as Bordeaux’s signature reds, consisting of up to five grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec (though often just the first two to three are used). There are the heroically titled Supertuscans: Italian-inspired creative blends of various reds including the earthy Sangiovese grape.

And there is the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend from the Southern Rhone region of France, celebrated for its complex blend of up to 13 varietals (go to any late-night wine geek party to partake in a “who can name them all” contest). White and red meet on occasion, with fragrant Viognier blended in with its dark Syrah partner in some Northern Rhone wineries.

Other common blends involving white wines include the classic dessert wine trio comprising Sauternes (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle), as well as Western Australia’s Margaret River region, which favors combining rich Semillon with crisp Sauvignon Blanc. However, very rarely do we see wine blends that break the mold, especially on the shelves of a mainstream, big-box store (I realize you may be crafting a “big-box wine” pun in your head at this moment).

Yes, we are talking about WalMart wine. Specifically, their Oak Leaf Vineyards Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, which happens to be priced at $2.47 a bottle – the same price as the Boon’s Farm concoctions on the shelf below it. WalMart’s Oak Leaf comes in a series of seven wines; six are single-varietal and one is our innovative blend. The line-up includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, White Zinfandel, and Chardonnay – the latter being the only varietal packaged in the curvilinear Burgundy-shaped bottle. A nod to its Old World roots. Nice touch.

Oak Leaf Vineyard is a California-based producer who has been listed across the Internet as being part of Gallo; however, I recently found out that this was not the case (scroll down here to read a detailed profile of the true, and somewhat mysterious, origins of this “extreme value wine” giant).

What is interesting about this particular Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend is that, first of all, it is an unusual combination. You just don’t find Chenin Blanc and Pinot Grigio fused together every day. Second of all – and I don’t mean any snobbery by this – I was quite surprised that they included this in the line-up at WalMart. Not that WalMart shoppers do not deserve to sample unusual wine blends, but this just seemed akin to McDonald’s having a braised short rib and mushroom risotto to-go plate for $3.59 alongside their burger menu. Uh, ok. Sure.  Great, in fact, but not the expectation.

Clearly, this is a wine to rival the other mass-marketed value wines (i.e., Trader Joe’s famous “Two-Buck Chucks,” or Charles Shaw wines).  Apparently, it is too much to ask for a vintage date on these bottles. Or tasting notes on the back label. Or any marketing copy about the vineyards, and south-facing slopes, and the painstaking care of the harvest. Just buy the thing and take it home to enjoy on the back patio with grilled chicken and herb-roasted potatoes, as I did. From this Pinot Grigio/Chenin Blanc blend, you can expect a simple, refreshing burst of tart pear, sweet autumn apple, and a subtle cedar-like woodsy note.

The best part is, this wine complements a variety of situations, not least of which includes watching Jerry Springer on the tube.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

The lunch rush feels like a leisurely gathering in northern Tel Aviv's hip cafe, Zurich.

On a recent trip to Israel, it was hard to miss the fact that Tel Aviv, along with most of Israel’s cities, thrives on the energy and hub of the café. Quite similar to Europe, in fact. Unlike the Starbucks institution we know (all too well) back in the States, Israel’s cafés seem to have a different kind of energy.

First, the cafés tend to focus on being outdoors, being part of a scene, of seeing and being scene – though with a surprising lack of pretension. While there were some laptoppers I observed in the Tel Aviv cafés, it seemed that most of the caférati were there to be in the moment – to socialize, or if alone, to take in their surroundings over an “upside down coffee” (kafe hafuch), a popular way to have your brew, with the coffee sprinkled over hot milk rather than having water poured onto the coffee first. Also, while there are several café chains in Israel now – Aroma, Café Hillel, CafeCafe, Arcaffe – there still seemed to be a very individual spirit to each café, and plenty of independent locations.

Another note on Israeli cafes is that they focus on food well beyond the carb-laden, glass case offerings. You can often order a typical Israeli breakfast which includes tomato and cucumber salads chopped into painstakingly tiny pieces, with lemon and olive oil, as well as eggs, cheeses, and breads or even sandwiches. “Real” food for breakfast, if you will; perfect for the savory protein lover, like yours truly.

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe fare includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

Typical breakfast fare at an Israeli cafe includes fresh, chopped salads, eggs, fresh-squeezed juices and sandwiches.

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Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Bar Avion, at New York's JFK airport, proves that preparing for take-off can feel mod and stylish.

Stale smoke, sticky floors, and the guy camped out ordering four double Long Island Iced Teas in plastic cups may be a thing of the past – or at least, a thing that does not plague all bars. Bar Avion, in New York’s JFK airport (Terminal 4) is bringing the swizzle back in the stick with its mod-meets-European design in calming blue tones. And don’t forget the actual food displayed at the door – a Japanese influence, perhaps? Bar Avion is a great example of the stylish way to prepare for take-off.

Does anyone have another example of a not-too-shabby airport bar?

© Gilat Ben-Dor. All rights reserved.

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Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

Sweet Bamba, the strawberry-flavored Israeli snack, makes for an interesting wine pairing challenge.

One of my sweet childhood memories, literally, involves a snack made in Israel: crunchy, festive little magenta spheres, strawberry flavored and known as “sweet Bamba” (as opposed to their original, burnt-orange colored, peanut-flavored counterpart, just known as “Bamba”). Given that a dessert should never be sweeter than a wine that it’s paired with (lest it make the wine taste bland or bitter), I’m curious as to pairing a ripe, honeyed Sauternes or Barsac with good ol’ strawberry Bamba.

If anyone beats me to this, let me know the results…or at least, your predictions.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

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Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

What makes a place an “institution”? No, not those kinds of institutions with straight jackets, mind you, but those places like Katz’s Deli in New York or Barnacle Billy’s in Maine. What makes a place elicit repeat business and a certain comfy notoriety? The predictable answer may be the combination of good food, hearty portions (that’s comfy!), warm service and a historic bent to the place. Add to that some childhood memories, and you’ve got the formula for a landmark locale.

Take Abulafia, the Jaffa-based boulangerie in Israel. They have expanded locations and gotten somewhat more slick in their distribution of their beigaleh and other savory baked treats, yet on a recent visit to Israel, after 18 years away, a funny thing happened to me. I did not necessarily recognize the original building (was it there in ’91?) but rather, I remembered what I used to order as a child from there…and had to get another. Take it all in: the flavorful sautée of onions, mushrooms, and yes, egg, all on a base of their hearty white beigaleh. It was nice to be back.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.

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Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

Convenience may come at a price for this coarse Chardonnay.

The Wine Cube by Target (the big, red retailer) may do for unfussy adults what Capri Sun and Juicy Juice did for the lunch box crowd – offer a compact way to get liquid refreshment on the go. While not advocating a literal “one for the road” message here, the Wine Cube’s compact containers include a handy-dandy 4-pack of wine “juice boxes” and come in a series of varietal flavors (“Collect all 8!”): I spotted Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Cabernet Sauvignon 4-packs in the store, but according to Target’s official website, the Wine Cube also comes in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Australian Chardonnay (as distinct from the other Chardonnay in the series), and seasonal offerings of red and white Sangria…all in a cube (or a box, really). These may be just the ticket for convenience-minded picnic goers who would still like to pair their goat cheese baguettes with something other than bottled water.

The packaging is certainly convenient – there are even Wine Cube holders, for those who want to accessorize, and the cubes themselves (lined cardboard) are stackable and unbreakable. You can take these with you to the beach, tailgate parties, or any other flask-worthy event.

But here’s the rub. I tried the Chardonnay of this series, both on its own (without food first) and, to simulate an actual picnic situation, I then tried it with both a ham sandwich and with a bevy of crunchy, salty snacks (it’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it). While these may not be ideal wine pairings for a Chardonnay (I’d sooner pair a Riesling with the ham sandwich and some bubbly with the snacks), my experiment was to see if the Chardonnay’s general versatility would stand up to these unusual pairings, and to see if the quality of this particular wine would complement the grown-up picnic experience without going gourmet. After all, versatility is perhaps the true definition of an “all-purpose” picnic wine.

The verdict? This wine was not to my liking – both on its own and with any of the paired foods. This Chardonnay lacked finesse and elegance, resulting in a bulky awkwardness on the palate and about as much subtlety as ketchup on a steak. Coarse would be an accurate descriptor. The alcohol – not the fruit – was at the forefront, causing an almost medicinal reaction in my mouth. Lest I get the Target police after me for calling their wine “medicinal,” I can only attest to trying the Chardonnay varietal of the Wine Cube thus far. Granted, this Chardonnay may be more at home with grilled chicken pasta or a turkey burger and loaded baked potatoes than with Cheetos– but if that’s the case, where do the “juice boxes” come in?  Or at the very least, let’s not compromise flavor for convenience.

Have any of you had a different experience with this wine? How about recommendations for other boxed wines, or other varietals in this series?

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

Target's Wine Cube in Chardonnay, one of several varietals in this series.

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Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Pate and foie gras on sale at gourmet purveyor Comtesse du Barry in Paris.

Time magazine has done it again. In the same issue as Ted Kennedy’s retrospective and Michelle Obama’s hair (week of September 7, 2009), Time has included a newsworthy article by Lisa Abend on a topic that has raised a hot debate in both the dining scene and the legislature – the ethics (and legality) of the force-feeding of geese to fatten their livers for the creation of foie gras. Foie gras is goose liver that has been prepared into a silky, flavorful delicacy favored by many a European and American.

The practice of force-feeding grain through a feeding tube to hapless animals in order to engorge their liver for the human “yum” factor has garnered both media and governmental attention, to the point that force-fed foie gras has become an outlawed product in certain foodie cities, including New York City. This cultural phenomenon that has quickly translated into an industry-wide economic scenario is now being revisited, thanks to the alternative philosophies of Eduardo Sousa, a “goose whisperer” who also raises about 1,000 geese in a natural environment in Extremadura, Spain.

Sousa’s answer to the industrial-style, forced fattening of the geese is to emulate their natural environment, from how they are birthed to how they forage for their food, and thereby “fooling” them into thinking they are wild, and not domesticated. This is directly beneficial in solving the natural-but-miniscule-liver issue often resulting from the disbanding of force-feeding. Sousa explains in Abend’s article that if you convince the geese that they are, in fact, “wild” and not in captivity, they will be influenced fully by their natural instincts. And then, he explains, the weather turns cold and in their instinctual state, the geese begin gorging themselves in preparation for their (imagined) long, airborne journey ahead. Ah…so is self-gorging the solution to force-feeding, then? Either way, this may pave the way for a new look at foie gras production practices and their ramifications, from gavel to table.

The foie gras issue is a tough issue. And let me just say that I am a huge fan of the stuff. Where do we draw the line with “humane” food consumption? If we boycott foie gras because of the force-feeding, are we still any better than the next person as we continue to eat veal, or eggs from caged chickens, or pork from pigs that were treated meanly at the feed lot? Heck, do we need to just say no to leather altogether?

Where does it end? And what are your thoughts?

*Further reading: for a Q & A article about Mark Caro, author of The Foie Gras Wars (and a disturbing photo of a tube-fed duck), click here.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

A selection of foie gras products at a Paris shop.

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