Abulafia: A bakery institution in Old Jaffa

Abulafia, the bakery that has become an institution in the Tel Aviv/Jaffa (Yafo) area.

What makes a place an “institution”? No, not those kinds of institutions with straight jackets, mind you, but those places like Katz’s Deli in New York or Barnacle Billy’s in Maine. What makes a place elicit repeat business and a certain comfy notoriety? The predictable answer may be the combination of good food, hearty portions (that’s comfy!), warm service and a historic bent to the place. Add to that some childhood memories, and you’ve got the formula for a landmark locale.

Take Abulafia, the Jaffa-based boulangerie in Israel. They have expanded locations and gotten somewhat more slick in their distribution of their beigaleh and other savory baked treats, yet on a recent visit to Israel, after 18 years away, a funny thing happened to me. I did not necessarily recognize the original building (was it there in ’91?) but rather, I remembered what I used to order as a child from there…and had to get another. Take it all in: the flavorful sautée of onions, mushrooms, and yes, egg, all on a base of their hearty white beigaleh. It was nice to be back.

© Gilat Ben-Dor.

Abulafia's onion and egg bread: After 18 years away, it's nice to return and order an old favorite.